BRUGMANSIA

September 11, 2013, 2:54 am

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If you are looking to create a tropical effect garden, or just want an impressive, flowering specimen plant to adorn your garden, you will be hard pushed to find a better example than a Brugmansia - otherwise known as the Angels trumpet.

Image credit - www.floridagardener.com

Large leaves, fast growing and producing huge exotic flowers, Brugmansias have everything you need when trying to bring a taste of the tropics to your suburban back garden - except for the fact that every inch of this plant is highly toxic! Something that I choose to overlook when buying them for my own garden.

The trumpet shaped flowers are often heavily scented, more-so in the evenings, and depending on the species or cultivar can come in shades of white, yellow, pink, orange, green, or red. Flowers may be single, double, but new cultivars can be even more.

Brugmansia species are a native to tropical regions of South America, along the Andes from Venezuela to northern Chile, and also in south-eastern Brazil. They are grown as ornamental container plants world-wide, and have become naturalized in isolated tropical areas around the globe, including within North America, Africa, Australia, and Asia.

Image credit - www.faroutflora.com

They are easily grow in large containers using John Innes potting compost No.2. However, Brugmansias will do best planted out in a greenhouse border although you will probably rather have them in a prime location in the garden. If that is the case than they will need to place in a sheltered positioned that will receive as much sun through out the day as possible.

They are best grown as shrubs pruned back hard annually, but they are also very effective when grown as small standards. Let them grow to the required height the pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching.

How to over-winter Brugmansias

In the cold winter climates of northern Europe and North America the subtropical Brugmansia is highly unlikely to survive without the help of a bit more global warming, and so for now your only option is to give it a helping hand.

You can begin preparing Brugmansias for overwintering from the end of September by slowly reducing the amount of water they receive. If they are growing in the ground then carefully lift the plant and pot it on into a suitably sized container. Give it a good watering initially, but the plant will still need its watering sufficiently reduced afterwards to help bring it into a state of dormancy. It is also a good idea to reduce the plants canopy by 1/3rd to help reduce water loss from its core through transpiration.

Keep an eye on overnight temperatures because Brugmansias can be severely damaged by frost. You will need to have brought them in under protection before frosts occur otherwise you will risk losing the entire plant. However, because Brugmansias can reach a fairly unwieldy size over the course of the year, it is likely that they will need a fairly severe pruning before bringing it inside. You can be quite brutal here as Brugmansias will readily grow back in the spring. Remember that the more you can trim it back - the easier it will be to deal with.

A word of caution with regards to Brugmansia –and it’s not about their well-known toxic nature – is their attractiveness to insect pests. Before bringing inside it is best to check the plant over and remove any pests that may themselves be hoping to overwinter in the leaves, stems and even the root system. Spray with an organic insecticide or remove all the leaves before placing the plant into a cool, dry, frost-free position - such as a basement - where it can be allowed to go dormant. It is important that temperatures do not drop below about 5 degrees Celsius during this period.

Check every few weeks to make sure the soil doesn't dry out too much and only water as necessary to keep the soil slightly moist.

In the spring, once the danger of frosts are over, move over-wintered Brugmansias back outside or plant in the ground for the following season.

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GROWING BROCCOLI

September 11, 2013, 4:31 am

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Broccoli isn't every ones favourite vegetable but there is no denying that it's packed with health promoting nutrients. And besides, if you are bored eating the standard green varieties consider trying the Purple Sprouting Broccoli or the even more exotic Romanesco natalino.

How to grow Broccoli

As a rule of thumb, broccoli varieties are heavy feeders, prefering a well-drained soil rich in organic matter. To get the best out of your crop it is best to start your site preparation the autumn before planting. Broccoli also prefer a site in partial shade with a soil pH between 6.2 to 7.2.

To prepare the soil, add a couple of inches of organic compost or well rotted manure to the ground and work it in - removing any large stones that turn up. Add lime - if necessary – to balance out the pH as your broccoli crop can fail if the soil is too acidic.

You can check the pH of your soil using an 'off the shelf' pH testing kit obtained from any good plant retailer. Once finished, tread over the soil to remove any air pockets, firming up the soil surface.

TIP.Autumn plantings of broccoli tend to do well following an earlier planting of peas or beans as these crops will naturally increase nitrogen levels with the soil.

Broccoli should be planted either directly into a seedbed, or singularly in modules under glass which can be transferred outside at a later date. As a general `rule of thumb` both white and Purple Sprouting Broccoli plants are sown in April - May time and transplanted June - July, but check your seed packet for more exacting times.

When sown directly outside, the seeds should be sown relatively sparsely to reduce future thinning and the potential risk from pests. When lifting from modules try and keep the root ball as intact as possible to minimise any damage to the juvenile root system,

Broccoli seeds can be 'direct sown' outside when temperatures are as low as 4°C, but temperatures of 7°-29°C will be more preferable for successful germination. Aim to sow broccoli seeds in ½ inch deep in rows spaced 6 inches apart and cover with soil, lightly firming with the head of the rake. Mark both ends of the row, labelling one end with the variety and date of sowing. Keep the seed bed moist, always use a fine spray.

When the seedlings are about 1 inch tall, thin them out to about 3 inches apart in the rows. This will stop overcrowding which would otherwise causing the seedlings to become weak and spindly.

The seedlings are ready to plant out when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall. Water the bed the previous day before removing the Broccoli seedlings to their permanent position.

If you have a greenhouse, cold frame or cloches - it is probably going to be easier to sow your broccoli into seed trays under protection.

Sow broccoli seed in a tray filled with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Water thoroughly and place them inside your greenhouse, cold frame etc.

When the first two leaves have formed prick them out into 3 pots filled with potting compost. Plant them into these pots a little deeper - to just below the two leaves - water in well.

Broccoli seedlings sown under protection will also be ready for transplanting outside once they have reached between 3 - 5 inches high.

Make sure that your protected broccoli seedlings are hardened off for at least a week or two before planting outside to make sure that they are tough enough to cope with ‘real’ weather conditions. Broccoli like a firm bed so transplant them firmly and about 1 inch deeper than the growing Broccoli were when in their pots. Leave a gap of about 18 inches between plants.

Water the broccoli the day before transplanting, water the hole you have created for the vegetable prior to planting, and keep well watered once outside until they are established.

Keep control of the weeds as they grow between your crop by hand weeding. Try and avoid using a how as this can disturb your crops roots and lead to the wind rock making the plants less productive

Because they are standing through the winter, a sheltered site is best and earthing up around the stems to 10cm will help keep the plant stable and prevent wind rock. Don't forget to keep them netted, pigeons will go for the young plants and in winter when their food is scarce they can decimate your plants.

Broccoli is a slow growing crop and not particularly hungry but improved results can be achieved by giving a high nitrogen liquid feed in the spring as the heads begin to form.

When to harvest broccoli

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WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?

September 13, 2013, 2:38 am

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HOW TO GROW PROTEA

September 14, 2013, 2:29 pm

≫ Next: HOW TO GROW THE JADE VINE

≪ Previous: WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?

Image credit michelle-armstrong http://fineartamerica.com/

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Proteas are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that they are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules. Perhaps the biggest mistake made is to plant and forget, because to ensure success you need to adapt your local environment to match its native conditions.

Image credit - https://www.theantiquarium.com/

To start with, it is important to ensure your Protea has adequate drainage. They prefer a free-draining sandy loam although some of the hardier specimens are less fussy and will tolerate a heavier soil. Be that as it may, Proteas will not survive in heavy clay soils.

NOTE. Do not plant any proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.

If you do have a heavy soil they it will need to improved by digging it plenty of organic matter gypsum to break up any residual clay.

In extreme cases you may need to plant your Proteas into a raised bed or at the very least a large, raised mound of soil to ensure a minimum level of drainage.

Most Protea varieties require an acidic soil with a pH below 6, although some will tolerate neutral to alkaline soils with a pH above 7. This can be confusing so research your Protea before planting.

No this part is important, in their native habitat most Proteas grow in soils that are low in nutrients, so they can be harmed by fertilisers which contain normal levels of phosphorus. With this in mind, it is best not to use any fertiliser when planting out Proteas.

To cope in this low nutrient environment they have a specially adapted system of fine roots which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil

Image credit - http://www.asi.at/

They will do best in full sun, and not closed in by other plants. The fact of the matter is that the more sun your Proteas can get the more flowers they will produce.

Of course there are always exceptions as some Proteas are able to tolerate being grown in semi-shaded areas.

Proteas are fairly frost tolerant once established. In winter they can usually handle frosts around minus 2° Celsius, but surprisingly, some of the hardy species can tolerated frosts of minus 6° Celsius - for a short period time!

The roots are susceptible to cold damage so over winter, it is prudent to protect them using a natural mulch such as bark, straw or leaves.

Image credit - http://www.netcore.ca/

Do not use mushroom compost as this can contain levels of phosphates high enough to damage the sensitive root system. When applying mulch, leave a gap around the main stem/trunk otherwise fungal rots can set in.

Once established, Proteas are pretty tough, but in the first year they will need watering at least twice a week in the first summer. This may need to be increased to daily if it gets very hot.

After the first year, species considered drought resistant can be left to their own devises while the rest should be watered weekly during dry periods. If you are growing in tubs and containers then they will probably need watering every day during hot weather.

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↧

HOW TO GROW THE JADE VINE

September 15, 2013, 2:02 am

≫ Next: THE GUT - BRAIN CONNECTION

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Image credit - http://drawnassociation.net/

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The jade vine - Strongylodon macrobotrys originates from the tropical rainforests of the Philippines, a scattered group of 7100 islands in tropical Asia. As such it is not frost-tolerant, and will need a minimum temperature of 15°C (59°F). they do not have a rest period over winter.

Image credit - http://www.fairchildgarden.org/

Because of its potentially large size it needs to be grown over a substantial support such as a sturdy pergola, this also helps to display the spectacular cascading flower trusses which are produced generously once the vine is mature. This can be 2 years or more, depending on pruning regime.

They prefer to be grown in full sun and and in a slightly acidic soil. A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is will give the best results.

The drainage is very important as the jade vine requires copious amounts of water all year round. Lack of water will cause leaf-browning and slow and stunted growth.

The vines quickly mature if you prune them every three months or so. The flowers can be encouraged to form by pruning. Choose a new shoot of purple leaves on a mature vine no less than 1/2 inch thick.

If you are growing you jade vine in a pot, you should ideally grown in the largest container possible, to minimize the need to repot further. Once the vine is established, instead of re-potting, change the surface soil once a year or so by scrapping out old soil and replacing the top few inches of soil. Smaller plants, before they become climbers, can be re-potted annually.

Image credit - http://www.naturepicoftheday.com/

Jade vines are not particularly susceptible to pests, but can be affected by mealybugs, aphids, and mites.

Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of a white, powdery residue, or visible insects on the plant.

Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection.

In colder climates the plant must be grown in a large glasshouse or conservatory, and if you want the flowers to fruit they will need to be pollinated by hand.

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THE GUT - BRAIN CONNECTION

September 16, 2013, 12:13 am

≫ Next: WHAT MAKE A DIET GOOD, WHAT MAKE A DIET BAD?

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Have you ever had a gut-wrenching experience? Do certain situations make you feel nauseous? Have you ever felt 'butterflies' in your stomach? These expressions are used for a reason. As many of us are already aware of the gastro-intestinal tract is sensitive to emotion. Anger, anxiety, sadness, elation! All of these feeling can trigger symptoms in the gut.

Out of sight, out of mind, your digestive system is working around the clock delivering the nutrients in food to your bloodstream. As long as the system is running smoothly, you tend not to think about it. Once trouble begins, however, your gut — like a squeaky wheel — suddenly demands your attention.

The brain has a direct effect on the stomach. For example, the very thought of eating can release the stomach’s juices before food gets there. However, this connection goes both ways. A troubled intestine can send signals to the brain, just as a troubled brain can send signals to the gut. Therefore, a person’s stomach or intestinal distress can be the cause or the product of anxiety, stress, or depression. That’s because the brain and the gastro-intestinal system are intimately connected. In fact they are so intimately connected that some scientists believe that they should be viewed as one system.

To find out more about this fascinating insight you can check out this amazing info-graphic:

Via: Probiotic supplements

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WHAT MAKE A DIET GOOD, WHAT MAKE A DIET BAD?

September 16, 2013, 12:54 am

≫ Next: HOW TO GROW RUDBEKIA

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Ecstatic because you lost 20 pounds in a month, and all it took was denying yourself necessary, nutrient-packed foods? Maybe you spent the past four weeks eating only baby food, guzzling grapefruit juice, or eating a plain salad three times a day.

The problem that many people tend to ignore is that weight lost doesn't always equal health gained. That new diet that took inches off your waistline could be harming your health if it locks out or severely restricts entire food groups, like carbs, relies on supplements with little scientific backing, or clamps down on calories to an extreme.

The trouble is that many people are so desperate to lose weight that will try any diet that will give them the fastest loss, Worse still they will do this and at any cost, and irrespective of any health implications.

The best way to lose weight is in a sustainable and healthy manner, and of course there are many, many types of diets to chose from. But which one are best?

The following infographic will go some way to help explain:

Via: RetrofitMe

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HOW TO GROW RUDBEKIA

September 16, 2013, 2:13 am

≫ Next: RAFFLESIA ARNOLDII

≪ Previous: WHAT MAKE A DIET GOOD, WHAT MAKE A DIET BAD?

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The Cone flower - Rudbekia species, is one of the late summers great flowering plant families. At a time of year when most plants are spending their time producing seeds, the cone flower family is up there with the best of them producing large, long lasting flowers that are as colourful as anything produced in the spring.

If you have your heart set on a successional flowering garden then you would be 'mad in the head' not to have at least a couple of cultivars of this hardworking perennial.

Rudbeckia is a plant genus of 23 species, all of which are native to North America.

Perhaps the most popular species is Rudbeckia hirta, also known as the Black-eyed-susan.

There are a number of fantastic cultivated varieties ranging both in colour and height, and producing bold colours blooms up to 5 inches across!

The name was given by Carolus Linnaeus (the father of our modern system of classification) in honor of his teacher at Uppsala University, Professor Olof Rudbeck the Younger (1660-1740), and his father, Professor Olof Rudbeck the Elder (1630-1702), both of whom were botanists.

Luckily for us Rudbeckias will grow in any well-cultivated and well-drained soil. they prefer an open and sunny site, but some taller species may require staking in exposed conditions.

Plant Rudbeckias in October, March or April, but if your soil is particularly dry then you can mulch with peat or well-rotted manures early in the spring unless you want to reduce the height of the taller species

The flowers appear from August to October and are produced in daisy-like inflorescences, with yellow or orange florets arranged in a prominent, cone-shaped head.

It is this arrangement that has brought about its common name of the cone flower.

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↧

RAFFLESIA ARNOLDII

September 17, 2013, 2:13 am

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Rafflesia arnoldii and , the Titan Arum is technically a flowering organ partly made from clusters of many flowers so if you want to be pedantic about things, the largest 'true' flower is the Rafflesia arnoldii.

Inside the flower - image credit http://bunyipco.blogspot.co.uk/

Again, it is noted for producing the largest individual flower on earth, and for producing a strong odour of decaying flesh.

It only occurs only in the rainforests of Bengkulu, Sumatra Island, Indonesia, and Malaysia, and is already near extinction due to loss of habitat.

The Rafflesia arnoldii plant is rare and fairly hard to locate. It is especially difficult to locate the flower in forests as the buds take many months to develop and the flower lasts for just a few days.

The flowers are unisexual and therefore the close proximity of male and female flowers is vital for successful pollination. Combined, these factors make successful pollination a rare event.

When Rafflesia is ready to reproduce, a tiny bud forms on the outside of the root or stem and develops over a period of a year. The cabbage like head that develops, eventually opens to reveal the flower. The stigma or stamen are attached to a spiked disk inside the flower.

Rafflesia fruit - Image credit http://bunyipco.blogspot.co.uk/

A foul smell of rotting meat attracts flies and beetles to pollinate.

To pollinate successfully, the flies and/or beetles must visit both the male and female plants.

The fruit produced are rounded, and filled with smooth flesh including many thousands of hard coated seeds that are eaten and spread by tree shrews.

It lives as a parasite on the Tetrastigma vine, which grows only in undisturbed rainforests. Rafflesia lacks any observable leaves, stems or even roots, yet is still considered a vascular plant.

Similar to fungi, individuals grow as thread-like strands of tissue completely embedded within and in intimate contact with surrounding host cells from which nutrients and water are obtained.

Conservation

Image credit - http://myjourneytothedragons.blogspot.co.uk/

How many of these plants still survive is unknown, but as the remaining primary forests of Borneo and Sumatra disappear, it can be assumed that their numbers are dwindling.

Many are known to be nearing extinction. Some environmentalists are developing ways to recreate the species' environment in an effort to stimulate their recovery. This has proved unsuccessful so far.

Steps are also being taken to conserve the forests of Sumatra and Borneo. To help counter the over-collection of this rare plant, residents that have Rafflesia on their private property are encouraged to save the flowers and charge a small fee to see them.

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Based on an article from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rafflesia_arnoldii

↧

FRITILLARIA PERSICA

September 18, 2013, 2:37 am

≫ Next: THE WORLD'S LARGEST SEED

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Image credit - http://www.suttons.co.uk/

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The Fritillaria family has some of the worlds most gorgeous looking flowering plants and Fritillaria persica is no exception. The trouble is that the bulbs need to be grown to a seriously large size before they are mature enough to flower. This means that if you do want to purchase one, numbers are always limited and that makes them expensive!

Wild Persian Lilies - image credit http://commons.wikimedia.org/

Commonly known as the Persian lily, it a native to the rocky slopes in Turkey, Syria, Iran, Jordan and Israel, west Asia and southern Turkey.

Unfortunately, due to over collection and loss of habitat this stunning plant is under threat in the wild.

If you do get to see the Persian lily for sale, a rarity in itself, then you shouldn't need to worry about damaging wild stocks as the reputable bulb companies shouldn't sell them.

What you are more likely to be purchasing is the cultivar 'Adiyaman', which is taller and more free-flowering than the true species. If you are concerned about the origin of your plant stock then make inquiries at the point of origin, or do not purchase!

It is a robust bulbous perennial growing between 12 and 24 inches tall depending on maturity and environment. Each plant may bear up to 30, conical, narrow, bell-shaped flowers. these can be up to 3/4 inches long, ranging in colour from a luscious deep purple to greenish brown.

How to grow Fritillaria persica

Persian lily bulbs - image credit http://www.srgc.org.uk/

The Fritillaria persica will grow in any fertile, well drained soil in a sunny border or rock garden.

However a note of warning is needed here! Do not plant them in an area where the plant is at risk of becoming waterlogged, because if you keep them to wet and you may lose the bulb to fungal rots!

They like hot, dry sites, and so perform best in full sun in the northern European gardens, however they will also appreciate some light afternoon shade in warmer countries.

Fritillaria persica are usually purchased as bulbs, as as such will need to be handled carefully. They are composed of few fleshy scales and are intolerant to bruising or prolonged periods exposed to the air - a characteristic which I have discovered to my cost.

Image credit - http://www.srgc.org.uk/

Purchase yours as soon as they become available, normally the end of August, early September and get them in the ground at your earliest convenience.

They will need to planted 6” deep and spaced 9-12” apart. Position on their sides so that the hollow crowns do not retain water. Forget, and sit them upright, and once more your bulbs are at risk of rotting off underground. This is an expensive mistake.

Surround them with course sand to help drain excess water away. The Persian lily is prone to slug and snail damage on emerging growth and so will benefit from a mulch of sharp grit to deter them.

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↧

THE WORLD'S LARGEST SEED

September 19, 2013, 1:28 am

≫ Next: CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'

≪ Previous: FRITILLARIA PERSICA

Image credit - http://www.seychellesbookings.com/

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The world's largest seed is the amazing Coco de Mer, which is French for 'Coconut of the Sea". It the creation of the rare palm - Lodoicea maldivica, a tree which incredibly holds no less than three botanical records.

Female flower - image credit http://blog.insureandgo.com/

1. The first is for producing the largest fruit so far recorded which weighed in at 42 kg!

2. The second is for having the world's heaviest seed which can weigh up to 17.6 kg.

3. An finally, the female flowers are the largest of any palm.

It is the sole member of the genus Lodoicea, and is native to the islands of Praslin and Curieuse in the Seychelles. At one time it was also found on the small islets of St Pierre, Chauve-Souris and Ile Ronde (Round Island), but now they are extinct.

The name of the genus, Lodoicea, is derived from Lodoicus, the Latinised form of Louis, in honour of King Louis XV of France. It originated before the 18th century when the Seychelles were still uninhabited.

History of the Coco de Mer

In centuries past the coconuts that fell from the trees and ended up in the sea would be carried away eastwards by the prevailing sea currents.

The nuts can only float after the germination process when they become hollow. In this way many drifted to the Maldives where they were gathered from the beaches and valued as an important trade and medicinal item.

This association is reflected in one of the plant's older botanical names, Lodoicea callipyge, in which callipyge is from the Greek meaning 'beautiful buttocks'. Other botanical names used in the past include Lodoicea sechellarum Labill. and Lodoicea sonneratii (Giseke) Baill.

Until the true source of the nut was discovered in 1768 by Dufresne, it was believed by many to grow on a mythical tree at the bottom of the sea. The seeds of the Coco de Mer have been highly prized over the centuries. So much so that their rarity caused great interest and commanded high prices in royal courts. Once in possession, the tough outer seed coat has been used to make bowls and other instruments.

Conservation

Silouette island - image credt http://natureworkshop.com/

The Seychelles has become a World Heritage Site, around which a third of the area is now protected. The main populations of Coco de Mer palms are found within the Praslin and Curieuse National Parks, and the trade in nuts is controlled by the Coco de Mer Decree of 1995.

Habitat loss is one of the major threats to the survival of remaining populations, and there have been numerous fires on the islands of Praslin and Curieuse. This has resulted in only immature trees remaining over large parts of these islands.

Firebreaks do exist at key sites in an effort to prevent devastating fires from sweeping through the last populations. There are a number of cultivated palms grown on a few of the other islands and are widely present in botanic gardens. However the collection of seeds from the ancient populations in order to promote these new, introduced populations may be a further threat to the remaining natural stands.

Unfortunately the history of exploitation continues today, and the collection of nuts has virtually stopped all natural regeneration of populations with the exception of the introduced population on Silhouette island.

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↧

CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'

September 20, 2013, 2:50 am

≫ Next: HOW TO GROW CROCUS

≪ Previous: THE WORLD'S LARGEST SEED

Image credit - http://highergroundgardens.com/

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The crocus 'Orange Monarch' is lauded as the world's only truly orange crocus. But how orange is it? Well that remains to be seen as there are few images available and I have yet to see them in anyone's garden. This is because it as brand new cultivar which only became available on the market in the autumn of 2012.

Credit - http://www.notcutts.co.uk/

Be that as it may, I have put my money where my mouth is, purchased some and planted them in the garden.

Unfortunately, like everyone else I will have to wait until the early spring before I find out for sure.

That aside, the richness of colour shown for crocus 'Orange Monarch' is utterly gorgeous and definitely worth a risk when a packet of ten corms retails at only a few pounds.

But there is a problem. Other than the main photograph shown above, all other images look distinctly yellowish!

This will be due to two things. Either the main photograph has been colour adjusted (the most likely explanation) to make it look more orange than it really is, or the strength of orange pigment is affected by the acidity and/or nutrient mix of the soil.

How to grow crocus

Crocus corms - image credit http://www.srgc.org.uk/

Crocus are usually purchased a corms in the autumn and can be planted in almost any soil, provided that it is well drained. they are best grown in rock gardens, but can be used as edgings to flower or shrub borders.

They are at their best planted in groups beneath deciduous shrubs or trees, or entirely in the open so that they can benefit from any available warmth and protection from the wind. This will help to encourage the flowers to open as soon and as often as possible

Crocuses are best planted as soon as possible approximately 2-3 inches deep. In lighter soils they can be planted deeper to 6 inches where summer cultivation may disturb dormant corms. Space the corms 3-4 inches apart.

Resist removing the flowers as they die back and do not knot the leaves into bunches as some gardeners do for daffodils. Leave the leaves where they are until they turn yellow at which point they should easily pull away from the base.

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↧

HOW TO GROW CROCUS

September 20, 2013, 11:28 pm

≫ Next: HOW TO GROW THE BLUE ORCHID

≪ Previous: CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'

Image credit - http://highergroundgardens.com/

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One of the undeniable jewels of early spring are the plants of the crocus family. And it is a miracle that they do so well in our northern European gardens as they are in fact a native to central and southern Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. They can also be found on the islands of the Aegean, and across Central Asia to western China.

The crocus first made their way to Europe when corms were brought back from Constantinople in the 1560's by the Holy Roman Emperor's ambassador, Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq.

By 1620, new garden varieties had been developed, such as the cream-colored crocus feathered with bronze at the base of the petals. Varieties similar to this are still available to buy today!

Undoubtedly tough, they do so well in our climate because they have evolved to survive a range of environments from woodland, scrub, and meadows from sea level to alpine tundra.

After the ever-popular snowdrop, crocuses are one of the first flowers to show their happy little faces in the new year. And after several months of cold, wet, and thoroughly miserable winter weather, their bright and cheerful blooms can't help but bring a smile to your frozen head.

Now, crocuses are grown from corms and not bulbs and as such do not do so well when left in pre-packed bags, exposed to the air. Therefore if you want to get the best out of buying pre-packed crocus you will need to get them in the ground as soon as possible.

Cultivation

Crocus corms - image credit http://www.srgc.org.uk/

Image credit - http://www.srgc.org.uk/

Most crocus are relatively straight forward to germinate from seed, in particular the most popular spring flowering varieties.

Although it will take a few years before your new plants come into flower this is an excellent way to build up large numbers of stock.

Try to obtain the seed as soon as it ripens on the plant as this is when they will be at their most viable. These can be found in swollen sheaths close to the ground - as shown in the accompanying photograph - around May/June time depending on the variety.

Sow the fresh seed thinly onto a compost mix of two parts John Innes 'seed and cutting' to one part vermiculite. Add a good layer of horticultural grit onto the surface and gently water in. Finely spray the surface with a copper fungicide such as cheshunt compound, and then transfer them into either a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.

Crocus seedlings - image credit http://www.srgc.org.uk/

During this period try to keep the compost moist. Good ventilation is very important for growing crocus seedlings so if it is poor where you are keeping them you may need further applications of fungicide to protect them from fungal infections.

Crocus seeds need a warm period followed by a cold spell in order to initiate germination, but if the seasonal temperatures are sporadic, dormancy will not be broken and the seed will need to wait until the following year. Any longer than that and the seeds tend to lose their viability. If this becomes a problem then you may need to refrigerate them for a month or so to break the dormancy and initiate germination.

It can take anywhere between 1 and 6 months for the seeds to germinate with the spring flowering varieties expected to germinate anytime between January and March. Because of this 'winter' germination pattern it's a good idea to try and keep these new plants from freezing again once germinated.

Image credit - http://www.suttons.co.uk/

At this stage they are extremely vulnerable and can easily be killed off if frozen when wet. Before germination it's best to try keep them in a greenhouse where the temperature doesn't go much below 1 or 2 degrees Celsius.

Then, as soon as they have germinated they can be kept a little warmer, but once again make sure that there is good ventilation to prevent the occurrence of rots.

Once your juvenile plants are growing the key thing to keep an eye on is attack by the various fungal infections that are out there. To help avoid this make sure that when they are potted on they go into a well drained compost and do not allow them to become waterlogged or left to stand in water.

Now they they are growing they can be periodically feed with a weak fertilizer as this will to help bolster up the young corm. Re-pot them every year into a richer compost such as John Innes 'No 2 or 3' but again add plenty of extra horticultural grit or vermiculite for drainage. You can also give them a good top dressing of grit to help keep the neck of the plants dry. By the third year your new plants should come into flower and are now sturdy enough to plant outside in the garden.

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↧

HOW TO GROW THE BLUE ORCHID

September 22, 2013, 2:31 am

≫ Next: VERBENA BONARIENSIS

≪ Previous: HOW TO GROW CROCUS

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The stunning blue orchid - Vanda coerulea, is a native to southeast Asia where it grows at elevations ranging from 2500 to 4000 feet in the Himalayan foothills.

Discovered in 1837 by botanist William Griffith, it remain forgotten until John Lindley produced a formal description ten years later in 1847. As you can imagine, knowledge of this stunning new species sparked huge excitement among orchid enthusiasts and hybridizers, who were eager to add this rare plant to their collections.

Image credit http://newnordicsavesplants.wordpress.com/

As has happened so many times in the past, this desire resulted in the unsustainable collection of these plants for profit leading to the rapid destruction of wild populations. It is also put at further risk by local charcoal production using the oak trees on which it grows.

In order to protect the remaining plants, intact habitat is now being protected and restrictions on international trade of Vanda coerulea have been put in place.

Luckily for modern day collectors, orchid breeders have been able to cultivate Vanda coerulea which means that it is available from sustainable sources. However, due to the environmental conditions of its native habitat it is a bit of a specialists plant, requiring different conditions to the usual range of orchids.

To find out how to grow Vanda coerulea I am going to hand you over to the Vanda orchid specialist Jon VanZile:

Growing the blue orchid

I have a hard time containing my enthusiasm for Vandas—it was a Vanda hanging in a garden center that sparked my interest in orchids, and still today I think they have the most beautiful flowers and the most exotic growing habit. You can mount other orchids or grow them in pots, but the idea of a large vandaceous orchid growing suspended in a slotted basket is like horticultural catnip for me. Yet Vandas are not properly beginner's orchids, and even among more experienced growers, they require certain elements that can be hard to deliver at home. They need high humidity and high temperatures, bright light and turbulent air flow. They need periods of drenching "rain" followed by a hard dry period. And large specimens, including their curtain of aerial roots, can easily grow to five or six feet in length. Obviously, these are not plants most people can easily keep in their homes. They are more properly greenhouse plants, where they flourish under overhead irrigation and bright sunlight. Yet I'm including them here because of their sheer importance to the serious orchidist. These plants win a lot of awards and are the subject of focused, serious and long-term breeding efforts to produce the showiest, largest, and flattest flowers.

Taxonomy and Structure:

Image credit - http://rhamphotheca.tumblr.com/

Vandas are in the Vandae tribe and Sarcanthinae subtribe of orchids. They are native to the east Asian tropics, ranging from Sri Lanka to China to the Phillipines to Australia. In all, there are about 40 species of Vandas, but that doesn't even come close to recognizing the number of hybrids, of which there are thousands. Vandas are monopodial orchids, meaning they grow from a single stem, with roots emerging from the bottom of the stem. Vandas' leaves are alternating, climbing the stem in a ladder-like progression. Older Vandas frequently branch, and if left undivided, the plants can grow into very large specimens. Vandas flower from spikes that emerge from the central stem and poke out between the leaves. Vandas are known for very large, robust roots that are difficult to contain in any sort of pot or container.
Light:

Vandas require bright light, but generally do not thrive in full sunlight. I've seen Vandas acclimated to full sun, but these plants are generally washed out and not as healthy as those grown under a light shade cloth to take the edge off strong sun.

Watering

Vandas are occasionally grown in plastic pots with sphagnum moss and orchid media, but this is a far-from-ideal situation. Instead, most growers prefer to grow Vandas in slotted baskets, where their roots are free to dangle toward the ground. Plants grown like this require a great deal of water. In periods of high temperatures, Vandas might need to be watered twice a day. When watering a Vanda, first soak the plant until the white or silvery roots turn color. Then wait a few minutes before again saturating the plant. Overall, the plant should be under spray for up to 8 minutes. Some growers leave their sprinklers on for 20 minutes and swear by it, but I've been told by Vanda breeders that Vandas cannot continue to absorb water beyond about 8 minutes. Seriously dehydrated Vandas can be floated in a bucket of water (just put the whole plant in) for a while to rehydrate them.

Fertilizer requirements

Image credit - http://commons.wikimedia.org/

Vandas are heavy feeders, and well-fed plants bloom better. During the growing season, fertilize with a liquid-based, weak fertilizer weekly. Plants that are grown in plastic pots can be fertilized with controlled-release fertilizer pellets in addition to the liquid-based fertilizer.

Temperature

Vandas are warm-house orchids that prefer temperatures above about 65˚F. They can tolerate lower temperatures, but a prolonged exposure to colder temperatures will have a profound effect on the plant's growth and flowering. Exposure to any temperatures below 50˚F can cause delayed flowering for up to a year. The only real exception to this is the Vanda coerulea, one of the few true blue orchids. These Vandas can handle cold temperatures better than many of their cousins.
Blooming:

Vandas will bloom throughout the year, depending on their growing conditions. Healthy, happy plants with plenty of access to light, warmth and moisture will bloom at any time. Vandas bloom from spikes that emerge in a predictable pattern from between leaves. The flower spikes have multiple flowers, depending on the plant, and the flowers will stay open for a matter of weeks. Vandas are generally chosen for their blooms, with flowers in hot pink, red, blue, purple, or mottled. The choicest flowers are flat and round, with very bright colors.
Potting and Media:

Vandas are big, robust plants that will quickly outgrow most containers. They do best in situations where their large aerial roots are allowed to meander through the air or grasp onto a substrate. I've seen them successfully grown mounted to trees or buildings, but really, the best way to grow vandas is in open baskets with no substrate. To start a Vanda, weave the roots through the basket slots and wire the stem base in place with plant wire. Large Vandas might not need repotting at all, as they will continue to grow beyond the edge of the basket. If, however, your Vanda needs repotting, it is usually best to set the old basket inside the new basket and simply leave it at that.

Growing Tips

Image credit - http://www.botanicalart.in/

Vandas and their many hybrids and related species are, to some degree, instinctive plants. Their basic requirements—air flow, warmth, bright light, high humidity, copious watering—are well known, but only go partway in describing the best growing conditions. And because they are typically grown without substrate, they are particularly sensitive to cultural conditions. The difference between a well-grown Vanda and a substandard Vanda, even in the same species, can be profound. Well-grown Vandas reward their diligent owners with profusions of blooms, multiple spikes per year, and vibrant colors. Substandard Vandas begin to lose their leaves from the bottom until the stem is gradually denuded. Aside from flowering and retaining leaves, you can tell a great deal about the plant's health from its leaves: they should be green to light green and unblemished with dark spots. Black or yellow spots usually signify a problem. In my experience, though, the number one problem with Vandas is lack of water—to grow healthy Vandas, make absolutely sure they are adequately hydrated.

Based on an article from http://houseplants.about.com/od/orchids/p/Vanda-Orchids-How-To-Grow-Vanda-Orchids.htm

↧

VERBENA BONARIENSIS

September 22, 2013, 11:54 pm

≫ Next: THE SNOWDROP 'GRUMPY'

≪ Previous: HOW TO GROW THE BLUE ORCHID

Image credit - http://mistlefield.blogspot.co.uk/

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The Verbena bonariensis is an autumnal God-send, and I mean that for two specific reasons. It comes in to full flower when most other plants are busy producing seeds, and it is an excellent source of nectar for those pollinating insects brave enough to venture into the cold and blustery autumn weather.

Image credit http://en.wikipedia.org/

As ideally suitable as it appears to be in our northern European gardens, Verbena bonariensis is a long way from home. This tall and slender-stemmed perennial is in fact a native of tropical South America where it grows throughout most of the warm regions, from Colombia and Brazil to Argentina and Chile.

It can grow to an impressive 6 foot tall, and can spread up to 3 foot wide.

The stem is unusual in shape in so far that it is square with very long internodes, and at maturity, they will develop a surprisingly woody base.

The fragrant lavender to rose-purple flowers are produced in tight clusters located on terminal and axillary stems, and will bloom from mid-summer until the first of the autumn frosts.

The flowers are not only attractive to gardeners, they are very attractive to butterflies, and provide nectar for native bees and many beneficial garden insects.

The leaves are ovate to ovate-lanceolate with a toothed margin and grow up to 4 inches long.

How to grow Verbena bonariensis

Image credit - http://www.summerhillgardencentre.co.uk/

Verbena bonariensis will grows best in a well-drained soil, in fact once it has established it root system it cab be considered to be is positively drought tolerant! However newly planted and pot grown specimens have a habit of drying out so generous water will be required in these circumstances.

It can be grown in any fertile soil, adding manure or peat into the soil before planting. Verbena bonariensis prefers full sun to partial shade and an open position. It has a reputation of rarely being attacked by insect pests, but may be susceptible to powdery mildew.

Protect the root system over winter with bracken, ashes or course sand. In colder regions the root-ball can be lifted and stored on boxes of soil in a frost-free environment. Just make sure that the roots do not dry out.

It has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

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↧

THE SNOWDROP 'GRUMPY'

September 23, 2013, 12:42 am

≫ Next: LOBELIA 'Queen Victoria'

≪ Previous: VERBENA BONARIENSIS

Image credit - http://www.judyssnowdrops.co.uk/

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There are 20 species of wild snowdrops in the world, with more than 2,000 cultivated varieties. However there is one that stands head and shoulders above the rest, a selected form of Galanthus elwesii known as the 'Grumpy'.

Image credit - http://inishindiegardenmatters.blogspot.co.uk/

Recently, rare and unusual snowdrops have been experiencing something of a resurgence.

In fact, record prices are being paid for single bulbs and a lucrative industry is developing to satisfy the demand of the growing number of snowdrop fanciers, otherwise known as galanthophiles.

Such high prices are reminiscent of 'tulipmania', a period in the Dutch Golden Age during which contract prices for bulbs of the recently introduced tulip reached extraordinarily high levels and then suddenly collapsed.

Most recently, a single Scottish Elizabeth Harrison snowdrop bulb was sold for a record £725.

History of the Grumpy

Jo Sharman - image credit http://www.dissexpress.co.uk/

The Grumpy was discovered by Joe Sharman in the garden of British explorer Sir Vivian Fuchs in Cambridge 20 years ago.

Sir Vivian became a national hero when he made the first surface crossing of the Antarctic in 1957-1958.

The flower shows a face in the form of two green eyes and a mouth turned down at the corners. This naturally appears on one of its petals, making it a very sought after variety in the gardening world.

Mr Sharman grows the flowers in a secret location near the city which he will not reveal for fear of theft of the valuable plants – which can fetch up to £400 for a single bulb.

Galanthus elwesii 'Grumpy' does not multiply as quickly as other snowdrops. This is a major contributing factor as to why the price of this particular specimen has rocketed.

Unfortunately these high prices has brought some unwanted attention as there have been a number of reports of snowdrop thefts. This is taken so seriously that at certain events security guards are hired to protect them!

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LOBELIA 'Queen Victoria'

September 23, 2013, 6:40 am

≫ Next: THE COCO de MER - Lodoicea maldivica

≪ Previous: THE SNOWDROP 'GRUMPY'

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Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen Victoria' is a plant that has stuck with me for years. Mainly because it was the first plant recommendation from the man who ignited my passion for all things horticultural - Hilary Newman, a superb lecturer from Hadlow college, unfortunately now retired.

However, it is a cultivar that always gives me doubts. The dark bronze foliage isn't of a sold colour, the leaves looks as though it's too much of an effort to fill out properly. Don't give it enough water and the whole thing will bend over - and even now, I can hear it whining about supposed neglect even though I thoroughly watered it this morning, and have just this past hour given it a substantial top up!

It is a petulant child, ready to pull out a giant strop at a moments notice, and every year I constantly question myself as to validity of having this plant in the garden. At least I do right up until the time it flowers.

As far as flowers go, there are not many species that produces a pigment so bright and crisp that it can actually hurt your eyes to look at them! The cardinal-red blooms (hence the name) are outstanding and almost luminescent, and the rather dull foliage - once despised - now comes into play as the perfect foil. You can expect to see the stunning, five-lobed flowers in July and August.

After all the pampering and heart ache, Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen Victoria' will absolutely perform for you. Furthermore, it is truly is a worthy recipient of both the name 'Queen Victoria' and its 'Award of Garden Merit' from the Royal Horticultural Society.

Along with Hilary Newman, I give this plant my hearty recommendation.

How to grow Lobelia cardinalis

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THE COCO de MER - Lodoicea maldivica

September 24, 2013, 12:55 am

≫ Next: WHAT IS THE WORLD'S HARDIEST PASSION FLOWER?

≪ Previous: LOBELIA 'Queen Victoria'

Image credit - http://www.seychellesbookings.com/

CLICK HERE FOR THE 'GARDEN OF EADEN' SEED SHOP

The amazing Coco de Mer, which is French for 'Coconut of the Sea', is truly one of natures great wonders. It is in fact the seed of the rare palm - Lodoicea maldivica, a tree which incredibly holds no less than three botanical records.

Female flower - image credit http://blog.insureandgo.com/

Silouette island - image credt http://natureworkshop.com/

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WHAT IS THE WORLD'S HARDIEST PASSION FLOWER?

September 24, 2013, 4:44 am

≫ Next: COLEUS 'Palisandra'

≪ Previous: THE COCO de MER - Lodoicea maldivica

Image credit - http://yhsgarden.wordpress.com/

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Contrary to what you may think by walking around your local plant retailer, passiflora caerulea is not the hardiest passionflower plant that you can purchase. While it is indeed tough as old boots, the hardiest species of all is the gorgeous, but rarely seen Passiflora incarnata.

This of course means that you can impress your friends with an even fancier species of passionflower, but without the need to lift it for overwintering or to take cuttings to ensure viable stock for next year.

Image credit - http://coclo63.free.fr/

As with most species of passionflower it is a native to southern United States, but more specifically to Florida and Texas where it typically occurs in sandy soils, low moist woods and open areas.

Commonly known as the Maypop, it is a fast growing perennial vine with climbing or trailing stems. The fragrant flowers bloom from early June on-wards and are followed by fleshy, egg-shaped, edible fruits in July. These fruits will ripen to a yellowish color in the autumn when they can either be eaten fresh off the vine or made into jam.

They are best grown in a sheltered site on a south or west facing wall. They are happy in any well drained garden soil, but in colder areas may need to some winter protection for the first year or two while the main stems thicken up.

Trellis or wires make the best support, and while Passiflora incarnata is self-supporting, young growths will appreciate being tied in, or at the very least 'directed'.

The plants were given the name Passionflower or Passion vine because the floral parts were said to represent aspects of the Christian crucifixion story, sometimes referred to as the Passion. The 10 petal-like parts represent Jesus's disciples, excluding Peter and Judas. The 5 stamens represent the wounds Jesus received, the knob-like stigmas the nails, and the fringe the crown of thorns.

The name Maypop comes from the hollow, yellow fruits that pop loudly when crushed.

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↧

COLEUS 'Palisandra'

November 1, 2013, 1:51 am

≫ Next: THE POMEGRANATE

≪ Previous: WHAT IS THE WORLD'S HARDIEST PASSION FLOWER?

WANT TO BUY COLEUS SEED? THEN CLICK HERE FOR THE 'GARDEN OF EADEN' SEED SHOP

Coleus 'Palisandra' is a gorgeous heirloom cultivar that was a favorite during the 'Coleus craze' of the late Victorian era. It's easy to see why! The soft, velvety, neatly serrated leaves of deepest burgundy-maroon look almost black and are quite possibly the purest and deepest colour in existence!

Cultivated for their highly variegated leaves, Coleus is a genus of flowering plants from the family Lamiaceae, and a native to tropical Africa, Asia and Australia.

Although commonly known as Coleus through the horticultural world, this name has in fact been superseded by the rather difficult to pronounce 'Solenostemon'. So expect the name Coleus to remain in use for some while yet! Another common name is 'painted nettle' which reflects the deadnettle family (Lamium) to which it belongs.

Originally selected as a houseplant, Giant Exhibition Palisandra is also a fine specimen for shady areas in the garden. This cultivar is one of a series of re-selected Victorian Coleus, by
The Royal Botanic Gardens Kew.

You can sow at any time of the year on the surface of a good seed compost, but do not cover with compost. This is because Coleus cultivars require light for germination. Gently water and sealing in a polythene bag. Germination will take approximately 10-20 days at 20-30°C (70-85 F).

Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be transplanted into 3 inch pots, and eventually 6 inch pots. They are best grown in a bright position buy out of direct sunlight. Remove the flower spikes as they will weaken the plant.

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