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THE POMEGRANATE

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Image credit Kris Peterson - www.flickr.com/groups/colorphotoaward





Take a trip around the Mediterranean and it's guaranteed that you'll see plenty of olive and citrus trees, mostly under commercial production. However, make your way into Greece and the Greek islands and you will come across a fruiting tree that you may not be familiar with, Punica granatum - the pomegranate.

The pomegranate has been cultivated throughout Greece since ancient times. In fact, carbonized fruit skins have has been identified in Late Bronze Age levels of Hala Sultan Tekke on Cyprus and the ancient remains of a historic hill fort at Tiryns.

Be that as it may, the pomegranate is generally considered to have originated in Persia, now modern day Iran.

Incidentally, Tiryns was first referenced by Homer who praised its massive walls. Tradition has it that the walls were built by the cyclopes because only giants of superhuman strength could have lifted the enormous stones.

Luckily for many of us the pomegranate is suitable for most people gardens and is surprisingly hardy. Growing to a height of between 8-10 ft, the pomegranate is hardy enough to be grown in the milder regions of norther Europe which even includes southern and western England!

It produces scarlet flowers from June to September, which are followed by yellow-orange, red flushed fruit. They are unlikely to ripen in norther Europe other than in exceptional years, but there is no such problem in warmer climates.

Pomegranates are relatively free of most pests and diseases, although you can experience minor problems are leaf and fruit spot and foliar damage by white flies, thrips, mealybugs and scale insects.

In the Ancient Greek mythology, the pomegranate was known as the 'fruit of the dead', believed to have sprung from the blood of Adonis, the god of beauty and desire!

They were also offered to Demeter and to the other gods for fertile land, for the spirits of the dead and in honor of compassionate Dionysus. Today, when someone buys a new home, it is  for a house guest to bring as a first gift a pomegranate, which is placed under/near the ikonostasi (home altar) of the house, as a symbol of abundance, fertility and good luck.

THE DUTCHMAN'S PIPE - Aristolochia cathcartii

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Commonly known as the Dutchman's Pipe, Aristolochia cathcartii is undoubtedly the most exotic of all the species within the Aritolochia family. Native to the eastern Himalayas and reaching as far as southern China, this large woody climber can be found in dense, subtropical forests at an altitude of approximately 400–1000 meters above sea level.

It has a corky furrowed bark and its 4.5 cm long flowers, which are produced from April until June, have a distinctive 'S' shape. They are in effect cream-coloured tubes, strongly inflated with striking  purple venation. The tube mouth is much broader than the tube and has yellow and purple dots inside The mouth is also fringed with succulent purple hairs.

There is good reason behind the conspicuous shape and bright purple patterning of the flowers. This because they are intended to both look and smell like rotting flesh, something they achieve with nauseating excellence. This mimicry has evolved in order to attract its insect pollinators.

The membrane inside the top of the flower is extremely thin and allows light through. It acts like a tiny window and attracts pollinating insects which fly towards this creamy light.

This area houses the sexual parts of the flower, and once inside the insect is imprisoned by specialist downward facing hairs.

When the insect has been trapped for long enough it will become covered in pollen. The imprisoning hairs wither and the insect is free to go and pollinate another flower.

HOW TO GROW SAFFRON

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Saffron is well known for being the world's most expensive spice. Surprisingly is produced from a crocus bulb, but the spice does not not come from the bulb itself! The saffron is in fact the bright orange stamens that protrude from within the flower.

The saffron crocus - Crocus sativa it truly an ancient spice but it does not exist in the wild. However it is believed to be descended from Crocus cartwrightianus, a native to the Greece, and the Greek island of Crete. This species is commonly found growing on limestone soil areas of the Attica Peninsula of Greece. There is evidence that this plant was cultivated in ancient Crete at least as early as the Middle Minoan Period (2000 BC), as exhibited by the fresco, 'the Saffron Gatherer, found at the Palace of Knossos.

Despite its Mediterranean origins, the saffron crocus has been grown successfully in more temperate regions. In fact the market town of Saffron Waldon in Essex, England owes its name to the flourishing, commercial production of Saffron during the 16th century and 17th centuries.

While the Saffron crocus is quite happy growing in a Mediterranean climate, its is also suitable in any similar climates with hot, dry summers. Surprisingly it can survive cold winters, tolerating frosts as low as −10 °C (14 °F) and short periods of snow cover.

This means that with a little work you can successfully grow the saffron crocus in northern Europe. Irrigation is required if grown in environments with low rainfall.

The Saffron crocus will grow best in full sunlight, in fact when grown commercially, fields that slope towards the sunlight offer the best sites. It prefers friable, loose, low-density, well-watered, and well-drained clay-calcareous soils with high organic content. In areas with more rainfall such as England the traditional raised beds will help to provide the necessary good drainage.

Rain immediately preceding flowering boosts saffron yields; rainy or cold weather during flowering promotes disease and reduces yields. Persistently damp and hot conditions harm the crops, and rabbits, rats, and birds cause damage by digging up corms. Nematodes, leaf rusts, and corm rot pose other threats.

The Saffron crocus will need a period of dormancy over the summer when they should not be watered, this may well require them to be covered to be protected from the rain. Come the autumn, the corms send up their narrow leaves and begin to bud in early autumn. Only in mid-autumn do they flower. Harvests are by necessity a speedy affair: after blossoming at dawn, flowers quickly wilt as the day passes. All plants bloom within a window of one or two weeks.

Roughly 150 flowers will yield but 1 g of dry saffron threads.

THE BAT PLANT

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The bat plant is truly one of natures most bizarre looking flowering plants. Looking like a cross between a bat and an flesh eating alien, this native to tropical forest in Yunnan Province, China, has the capacity to shock as well as delight! In Malaya they call it the Devil's Flower and strange, fascinating stories surround it. Originating, no doubt, from the malevolent way the eyes in the bloom seem to be following your every move!

This Gothic plant can reach a height of up 36 inches and produce  long 'whiskers' that can grow up to 28 inches. It will produce these incredible flowers from June to August. There are different colour types, including white and brown, both retaining the whiskers of the black variety.

It grows best in a well-drained, slightly acidic soil and although it appears highly exotic, this beautiful plant is in fact hardy down to -3 degrees Celsius!

Be that as it may, in temperate climates it is best grown in a greenhouse or conservatory, although it will be quite happy outside during the warmer seasons.

While you may find it very difficult to find the bat plants themselves you can purchase their seed quite easily.

Sow bat plant seed immediately in trays containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting', and  top of with a light covering of compost. Water gently and either place the tray in a propagator or warm place where you can maintain an optimum temperature of 27-29C (80-85F). It is essential that the soil temperature is high and kept steady.

If you do not have a propagator then seal the container inside a polythene bag after sowing. Germination usually takes 1-9 months. You can transplant seedlings when large enough to handle into 3 inch pots of a good free draining compost, preferably a peat or peat substitute compost with 10% added grit.


GROWING BUTTERNUT SQUASH FROM SEED

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As far as northern Europe is concerned, the butternut squash are a newcomer as far as edible crops go. While they have the look and taste of something rather exotic, especially when compared to the humble potato, swede and parsnip, the butternut squash is just as easy to grow.

When growing butternut squash from seed you want to try and give your crop the longest growing season possible. That way you will end up with far larger produce. Luckily, butternut squashes are easy to grow from seed and can be sown outdoors in the spot where they are to grow.  However it is best to get an early start by sowing them indoors in biodegradable pots, or outside under protection.

If you are going to direct sow outdoors, choose a position that receives as much sun during the day as possible. Two weeks before planting or sowing seed outdoors, make planting pockets 3ft apart for bush plants of summer squashes and 5ft for trailing plants of summer squashes. This is done by making a hole about a spade’s depth, width and height and back-filled with a mixture of compost or well-rotted manure and soil. Sprinkle a general fertiliser over the soil. Plant one plant on top of each planting pocket.

Sow two or three seeds 1 inch deep in each of the pockets in late May or early June and cover with a clear plastic cloche. The seeds should germinate after a couple of weeks. You can remove the cloche from this point onwards but if the weather is still inclement you can leave it in place for longer. Thin the seedlings to leave the strongest one.

For earlier crops or in cold regions sow seeds from mid to late April. The seeds will need to be sown so that it is either on its side, or with the pointed end down, 1/2 inch deep, in 3 inch pots of compost.

These indoor-raised seedlings can be planted outside on top of your planting pocket in early June, but will need hardening off for a week or so before. Do this by moving them into a cold-frame for a week or, if you don’t have a cold-frame, move plants outdoors during the day, then bring in at night for a week. The following week leave them out in a sheltered spot all day and night.

Butternut squash are vigorous plants and as such will require a lot of watering for optimum growth. Keep the soil constantly moist by watering around the plants, but not over them as this can encourage fungal infections to take hold. Consider sinking a 6 inch pot alongside the plants when planting out. Water into this instead of around the plant and it will help ensure the water goes right down to the roots and not sit around the neck of the plant, which can lead to rotting.

Feed your butternut squash crop every 10-14 days with a high potash liquid fertiliser once the first fruits start to swell.

When to harvest butternut squash

You will know when it is time to harvest butternut squash when they have turned a deep, solid tan colour and the rind is hardened. You can test this by gently pushing your thumbnail into the skin. If you can leave a dent in the skin without it puncturing then it is ready. It’s best to leave the majority of your crop on the vine until late September or October to make sure that the skins have thickened up enough for winter storage, but make sure you have your butternut squash harvest in before the first frost.


THE PLANT HUNTERS

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Our gardens are not just a piece of land used for growing flowers or vegetables; they are a genuine reflection of our cultural history.

Arguably our taste for the exotic was first ignited by the Romans when they arrived on (invaded) our shores in AD 43. Like many soldiers they brought with them the comforts of home.  It was after tasting the rare delights of plums, walnuts, roses and parsley, to name just a few, that the British bought into the pioneering spirit and began searching the planet for plants that can be put to good use back home.

Global expeditions are of course an expensive business.  With the rise of British fortunes during the reign of Elizabeth I finances became available.

To defend against the threat of a Spanish invasion Sir Francis Drake was sent to the Pacific coast of the Americas.  In between terrorizing and hijacking ships of the Spanish fleet, he found time to return to England with the potato and tobacco.

So economically important were theses two plants that they subsequently fuelled the rise of the British Empire.

Fifty years later and the pumpkin, pineapple, runner beans, sweet corn, and the tomato (considered to be a highly suspicious crop at them time) had been introduced to England. Furthermore, over 100 newly discovered North American species of tree were being grown in the grand estates of Great Britain.

The problem is that searching the globe for economically viable plants can come with considerable risk!

Mutiny on the Bounty - 1789

Perhaps the notorious botanical mission was Captain Bligh's ill-fated voyage aboard HMS Bounty in 1787. In order to win a premium offered by the Royal Society he sailed to Tahiti to obtain breadfruit trees. These were to be collected as viable potted specimens and taken to the Caribbean where they were needed for food research.

However the HMS Bounty never reached the Caribbean as the infamous mutiny broke out on board shortly after the ship left Tahiti.

Plant hunting continued throughout the centuries but it became an obsession during the reign of Queen Victoria. If it wasn't for those early Victorian plant hunters many of the plants that we see in our gardens today may never have been discovered.

David Douglas 1799 – 1834

David Douglas was a Scottish botanist who made three separate trips from England to North America, although the second expedition starting in 1824 was his most successful.

The Royal Horticultural Society sent him back on a plant-hunting expedition in the Pacific Northwest and this ranks among the great botanical explorations of a heroic generation. In the Spring of 1826 David Douglas was compelled to climb a peak near Athabasca Pass to take in the view and in so doing he became the first mountaineer in North America.

His success was well beyond society's expectations.  He introduced over 240 species of plants to Britain but most famously the Douglas-fir in 1827. Other notable introductions include Sitka Spruce, Sugar Pine, Western White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Lodgepole Pine, Monterey Pine, Grand Fir, Noble Fir and several other conifers that transformed the British landscape and timber industry.  In addition he discovered numerous garden shrubs and herbs such as the Ribes sanguineum, Salal, Lupin, Penstemon and California poppy. Douglas paid for his discoveries with his life at the age of 35. He was killed under suspicious circumstances in Hawaii after 'falling' into a pit dug to trap wild bullocks.

Robert Fortune 1812 – 1880

Robert Fortune was a Scottish botanist, plant hunter and traveller who introduced many new and exotic flowers and plants to Europe.

He was employed in the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, and later in the Horticultural Society of London's garden at Chiswick.

Following the Treaty of Nanjing in 1842, Fortune was sent out by the Horticultural Society to collect plants in China.

His most famous accomplishment was the introduction of tea plants from politically volatile China to British-controlled Assam in 1848. As a result of his mission success, the British gained a large, highly profitable industry and they were able to manufacture tea throughout the world.

He stayed in China for about two and a half years, from 1848 to 1851, often disguised as a Chinese merchant during his journeys.

Not only was Fortune's purchase of tea plants forbidden by the Chinese government of the time, but his travels were also beyond the allowable day's journey from the European treaty ports.

Fortune travelled to some areas of China that had seldom been visited by Europeans, including remote areas of Fujian, Guangdong, and Jiangsu provinces.

Ernest "Chinese" Wilson 1876 – 1930

Ernest "Chinese" Wilson introduced a large range of about 2000 of Asian plant species to the West. Some sixty species still bear his name, and over 100 have received the First-Class Certificate or Awards of Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society of London.

He discovered the majority of his new species growing in the Min Valley in south-west China. in 1903 and 1908.

In 1910 he again returned to the Min valley, but this time his leg was crushed during an avalanche of boulders as he was carried along the trail in his sedan chair. The injury left him with a limp for the rest of his life.

In recognition of his service to horticulture he received many awards such as the Victoria Medal of Honour of the Royal Horticultural Society of London in 1912, the Veitch Memorial Medal, and the George Robert White Memorial Medal of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society.

Reginald Farrer 1880 – 1920

Reginald Farrer was a traveller and plant collector.  He travelled to Asia in search of a variety of plants, many of which he brought back to England and planted near his home village of Clapham, North Yorkshire.

He liked to paint plants in situ, and often perched on a mountain ledge. Some of his watercolours show a village in the distance or a waterfall; partly to give some idea of the plant's favoured habitat and partly, one suspects, to record the emotional moment of discovery.  He also published a number of books, although is best known for 'My Rock Garden'.

Unfortunately Farrer was a prickly, arrogant character who was cast off by his own family after he converted to Buddhism in 1907. He also had a great sense of his own worth.

Despite his character faults he was perhaps the bravest of all the plant hunters. Travelling through northern China with William Purdom in 1914, the party was knowingly travelling just a few days ahead of a notorious bandit army. Six years later, Farrer died there at the age of 40, supposedly of diphtheria (though some said it was alcohol poisoning).

George Forrest 1873–1932

The greatest collector of all was arguably George Forrest, the foremost collector of Yunnan flora.  He amassed hundreds of species of rhododendron and other shrubs and perennials.  He brought back approximately 31,000 plant specimens and the name forrestii still adorns more than thirty plant genus.

In 1924 Forrest also discovered Camellia saluenensis, which formed the basis of the hardy Williams hybrid camellias which we grow in gardens all over the UK. He died of a heart attack in Yunnan in 1932 after a plant hunting career that included fighting off xenophobic Tibetan "lamas" and succumbing to malaria.

What motivated the plant hunters was not personal gain, as very few became rich.  They were not even motivated by fame as their names are only really familiar to keen gardeners through the plants they bequeathed to us. Their driving force was a passion for their subject and a spirit of adventure. It is easy to see when we look round at our great gardens that we owe them a great debt of gratitude.

WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BUTTERNUT SQUASH

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The butternut squash is a bit of a new-kid-on-the-block when it comes to the allotments of northern European, however it is easy to grow and definitely worth the effort in both flavour, texture and productivity. It will also store well and actually improves in taste the longer you leave it in the field. Like many crops though, leave it too long and it can be damaged by frosts or eaten by mice. So the question is this, when is the best time to harvest butternut squash?

To start with it’s best to leave the majority of your crop on the vine until late September or October to make sure that the skins have thickened up enough for winter storage, but keep an eye on the overnight temperatures to make sure you pick your butternut squash crop before the first frost.

Image credit - www.grosvenorgardencentre.co.uk/
You will know that they are ready when the butternut squash have turned a deep, solid tan colour and the rind has hardened up. To make sure, you can test it by gently pushing your thumbnail into the skin. If you can leave a dent without it puncturing then it is ready for harvest.

When picking butternut squash, cut it from the vine with a sharp knife, leaving about two inches of stem still attached to the squash. This will dry off and prevent bacteria entering the squash through the temporary soft spot where the stem once was. If you don't leave a length of stem the you are at risk of your squash rotting off. Any bruised squash should be eaten as soon as possible as they will not store well.

After harvesting butternut squash, they will  need to be cured for storage. Let the squash sit at room temperature for a week or two to fully harden the skin, but please them outdoors as they will be vulnerable do damage from insects and small mammals.

Once cured, the fruit can be stored in a cool, frost free environment such as a basement or garage. Properly stored, your butternut squash harvest should last from three to six months.

ARISTOLOCHIA SALVADOR PLATENSIS

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You are going to have to go a long way to find a flower more sinister than the amazing
Aristolochia salvador platensis. Looking like a Halloween death mask, or Darth Vaders full-face helmet, this species is so rare that hardly anything is known about it. These particular images are all that most will come across and were taken at the Jardin botanique de Lyon, France.

It is a member of the Aristolochiaceae family which includes over 500 species. Its members are commonly known as birthworts, pipevines or Dutchman's pipes and are widespread and occur in the most of the world's diverse climates.

Native to Brazil, this large woody climber can be found in open flood plains. In fact its descriptive name 'platensis' means wet sedgy meadows.

It has a smooth bark and its distinctive mask shaped flowers are produced from April until June. Each flower has distinctive cream-coloured 'eye sockets'  fringed with succulent purple hairs.

There is good reason behind the conspicuous shape and  purple patterning of the flowers. This because they are intended to both look and smell like rotting flesh, something they achieve with nauseating excellence. This mimicry has evolved in order to attract its insect pollinators.

The membrane at the back of the 'eye sockets' is extremely thin and allows light through. These act like a tiny windows and attracts pollinating insects which fly towards this creamy light.

This area houses the sexual parts of the flower, and once inside the insect is imprisoned by specialist downward facing hairs.

When the insect has been trapped for long enough it will become covered in pollen. The imprisoning hairs wither and the insect is free to go and pollinate another flower.

JAPANESE BLOODGRASS - Imperata cylindrica 'Red Baron'

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Ornamental grasses have both structure and grace, and there are a huge number to choose from. However, they do have one major drawback, and that is they do lack the colour of more traditional foliage plants. At least that is true save for one example, the stunning Imperata cylindrica 'Red baron'- the Japanese Bloodgrass.

This unique perennial grass is a native to east and southeast Asia, India, Micronesia, Melanesia, Australia, and eastern and southern Africa. As exotic as it is, the Japanese Bloodgrass is hardy enough to be grown in the warmer regions of northern Europe. And while it is solely grown in the west for ornamental purposes, the less colourful species is used for paper-making, thatching, weaving into mats and bags, thatching the roofs of traditional homes throughout south-east Asia. It is also used in traditional Chinese medicine.

It develops its brightest blood-red colouring when grown in full sun and is best seen where the sun is behind it. It will remains attractive until late autumn until it goes dormant in the winter. While the young flowering shoots are edible, the Japanese Bloodgrass will rarely flower in the cooler climates of northern Europe.

The Japanese Bloodgrass is best grown in damp and very humus rich soil that will remain moist throughout in summer. If it is grown in soil that is kept too dry then it has a habit of slowly fading away.

The clumps spread slowly by underground by means of runners. Cut back to ground in early spring to expose more of the new seasons foliage.


DEVILS FINGERS - Clathrus archeri

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When it come to creepy looking plants, Clathrus archeri has creeps to spare. Commonly known as Devils Fingers (or the rather less scary name of Octopus Stinkhorn),  it is a native to Australia and Tasmania, although it has become an introduced species in Europe, North America and Asia.

The above image is a particular favourite as it shows the fungus just before the fingers open up. In this instance it looks so much like a disembodied hand that it beggars belief. It even as the remnants of its tattered sleeves attached to the wrist!

Of course you can see from the accompanying images that it is misleading to call it a plant. It is in fact an edible fungus, and I say edible in so far as it should only be eaten in a wilderness survival circumstance when no other food is available.

The young fungus erupts from a partly buried white ball known as a suberumpent egg by forming into four to seven elongated slender arms initially erect and attached at the top.

 The arms then unfold to reveal a pinkish-red interior covered with a dark-olive spore-containing gleba. In maturity it smells of putrid flesh and thereby attract flies which unwittingly spread the spores and therefore proliferate the species.

THE WHITE EGRET FLOWER - Pecteilis radiata

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The White Egret flower - Pecteilis radiata (previously known as Habenaria radiata)  is one of Japan’s best known flowering plants. And why wouldn't it be as its flower does indeed look like a snowy egret with its plumage puffed out.

It is a delicate terrestrial species of orchid, and despite being a popular, well known species it is becoming endangered in the wild.

A genuine snowy Egret
Native to China, Japan, Korea and Russia the White Egret flower is usually found in marshy but well-drained soil that dries out in the autumn.

Purchased as small, pea sized tubers, the White Egret flower can be planted directly into the garden as long as you water it well throughout the growing season.

It prefers, cool, damp conditions in a sunny spot. It will even take a certain amount of light shade!

Fertilize lightly with 10-20% of the recommended dosage of an all-purpose plant food once or twice as the flower shoots emerge. The exquisite white flowers are then produced on flower spikes that are between 5-9 inches long, occasionally longer.

They will not survive the cold winters of northern Europe but they are easily saved by digging up the tubers, before freezing temperatures arrive.

Once lifted, dry them out and plant into either spagnum moss or moss-peat. Store in a cool, frost-free environment and dampened down the peat once a month to prevent the corms from drying out entirely.

Alternatively, you can plant the White Egret Flower into containers, but make sure that there is plenty of drainage by placing a layer of pot shards or clay pellets in the bottom.

You will need to improve the drainage of the potting soil too, but this is easily achieved by mixing in 30% by volume horticultural grit, perlite or vermiculite. Plant the tubers on the surface of the pot and 10 cm apart. Give it a light covering of soil and press firmly down. Water generously immediately after planting, and continue to do so throughout the growing season.

HOW TO GROW SALVIA PATENS FROM SEED

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Salvia patens is undoubtedly one of the very best blue flowering plants. A native to the temperate and sub-tropical zones of Mexico, when you consider their late summer/early autumn flowering period there is little else that can compete with the richness of its colour. So good is it that both the species and its cultivar 'Cambridge blue' have gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

Unfortunately, Salvia patens is frost tender and can only be grown outside in the very warmest regions of northern Europe. This means that it can be a difficult plant to source. However the seed from this gorgeous species is relatively easy to obtain, and as far as I am concerned well worth cultivating.

Sow Salvia patens seed from February to March in pots, or trays containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'.

You will need to provide heat in order to help initiate germination so place the pots or trays into a heated propagator at approximately 18 degrees Celsius.

Do not exclude light as this helps germination, and keep the surface of the compost moist but not waterlogged. The newly germinated seedling should emerge from 14 to 30 days.

Prick out the seedlings once they are large enough to handle and pot on into individual 3 inch pots.

Gradually acclimatise to outdoor conditions for 10-15 days before planting out after all risk of frost had gone. If you are planting in groups, space 18 inches apart.

Cultivation

In the colder areas of northern Europe Salvia patens can only be considered as a  half hardy annual, but in the warmer, southern regions it can be grown as a short lived perennial so long as they are planted in sheltered conditions.

It require a warm, sunny position, and to be on the safe side, plant out Salvia patens at the end of May, in ordinary, well-drained garden soil.

Pinch out the growing tips of young plants, once they reach 2-3 inches high, as this will encourage branching.

For related articles click onto:
Bird of Paradise Flower
Gasteria maculata
Growing Lavender
Hardy Banana Plants
Hibiscus
How to Break Dormancy in Seeds
How to Grow Foxgloves from Seed - By Terence Baker
How to Grow Hibiscus
How to Grow Banana Trees from Seed
How to Grow Roses from Cuttings
How to Grow the Sago Palm from Seed
How to Propagate lavender from Cuttings?
How to Take Cuttings from Box Hedging
How to Take Cuttings from Clematis
How to Take Chrysanthemum Cuttings
How to take Cuttings from Fuchsia
How to Take Cuttings from Lavender
How to take Cuttings from Rosemary
How to Take Hydrangea Cuttings
How to Take Hardwood Cuttings
Lavender
Lotus berthelotii
Monkey Tree
Plants
Rosemary
Strelitzia
The Hardy Begonia - Begonia grandis
The Monkey Puzzle Tree - Araucaria araucana
The Snowdrop
What is an F1 Hybrid?
What is Lavender?
What is Lobelia?
What is Seed Dormancy?
When and how should you prune back Lavender?

THE SECRET TO HARD LANDSCAPING

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If you are planning on designing a garden then hard landscaping is always going to be a key factor. In fact, without hard landscaping you would have no paths, walls, raised beds, fences nor almost any other feature.

Hard landscaping is essential to a garden as it gives you privacy, structure and functionality. It can make a small garden appear bigger whilst in a larger garden it can break up and define the space. Put simply, hard landscaping is the very bones of a gardens design. Get it right and you can create a paradise!

Sometimes hard landscaping is required out of necessity rather than for aesthetic reasons. These can include the building of a retaining wall to prevent soil movement, or to create a hard standing surface for car parking. Paths both protect lawns and lead you to areas of interest, whilst sloping gardens can be tamed with terracing.

Garden structures can add depth and interest to a garden, so design your garden to include space for outbuildings and seating.  Ponds and fountains can become a focal point, whilst pergolas and covered walkways can provide welcome shade.  Driveways and slopes can often be difficult to get right and rather than tarmac (don't even consider concrete!), block paving can be laid to the exact dimensions giving a bespoke look and a very smart first impression.

You can improve the flow of a garden if you use similar materials throughout it. You can experiment with different patterns of brickwork which can be used in buildings, pathways or even raised planters.  Repeating small details can add your personality to your garden, and make it stand out from others.  Paving materials such as cobbles, brick, railway sleepers, block paving and gravel can be used to define smaller areas within your garden.  Experiment with colours and patterns to achieve a unique look.

But there is no need to settle for solely utilitarian materials because with a little thought you can add flair to these more mundane works. And here lies the problem, the range of materials can be mind boggling, a selection of which you can see at  Milford.  You can choose from the traditional such a brick, gravel, rock or stone, concrete, and timber, to the more modern such as heavy duty plastics and rubbers, bitumen, glass, and metals.

In fact if you can imagine it, then you can probably build it, just so long as your budget is a large as you imagination. Do your research, and not only can you enhance the look of your property, you can be adding thousands to its value. However if you are landscaping the front of your property then it is always best to try and fit in with the rest of the properties on your street otherwise you can risk losing value.

GROWING RADISH FROM SEED

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You can't have a decent salad  without a compliment of tasty, crispy radish. Picked at their best, the freshness of their flesh and flavour are superb and I for one cannot get enough of them. As with all edible crops, flavour is paramount and to get the very best flavour you will need to grow them yourself. Shop bought radish are generally Ok, but they are are grown to guidelines that tend to only consider a continuity of shape, size and colour. Although they will be crispy, the flavour can be a little watery.

Luckily for us, Radish are easy to grow and have a very long cropping season so long as you sow successionally.

You sow radish seed into a prepared seed bed outside. They are happy in any fertile, well-drained soil with added humous and free from stones. You can make some preparations by adding by digging in some peat  or well-rotted manure if it was not enriched following a previous crop.

You can start your radish year by sowing under cloches in January or February. To extend your cropping, re-sow further batches every couple of weeks. Finish sowing come June as radish will tend to bolt in the heat which leaves the bulbs very bitter and unpalatable. However winter varieties can be sown from July onwards.

Although they like plenty of light, they will require cool conditions to stop them from bolting and coming into seed. While a position that receives full sun is ideal during the spring and autumn/early winter, you should consider sowing your radish crop to a more shaded area during the summer.

Using a rake, prepare a fine tilth then make a small drill no more than 1 inch deep. Sow the seed at an approximate rate of 2-3 seeds per inch, then give the seed with a light covering of soil. Now gently water in. germination will occur between 4 and 7 days.

As the seedlings emerge, thin them out to 1 plant per inch. At this point you may need to put in some protection from birds and consider applying derris dust to protect against flea beetles.

Hand hoe around the radish crop to keep down the weeds without damaging the plants and water if the soil becomes dry.

The radish crop will be ready for harvest from 3 - 6 weeks depending on weather and cultivars. Do not allow them to become longer than your thumb or wider than an inch before lifting. Once harvested they will stay fresh for up to a week when kept in a fridge.

THE FLYING DUCK ORCHID

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If you have never come across the Flying Duck orchid before then you can be forgiven for thinking that it is a photo-shopped fake. But I kid you not, the Flying duck orchid - Caleana major is a genuine species of small orchid, however because of the small size, it is very difficult to spot in the wild. The Flying duck orchid is native to eastern and southern Australia, and even then it is only found in eucalyptus woodland, in swampy shrub and heath land by the coast.

Each reddish-brown flower is 15 to 20 mm long, although in rare cases, the flowers can be greenish with dark spots. They are produced from September to January.

As you can see in the main image this terrestrial plant features a remarkably complex flower, which resembles a duck in flight. The peculiar flower shape as evolved to attract insects, such as male sawflies. From the side, as humans we see the flower as a duck, but the male sawfly perceives the flower as a female sawfly and tries to mate with it.

The beak-shaped labellum is in effect a sensitive trap is attached to the main body of the flower. It is triggered by the vibration caused by the insect landing on it. This trap springs down on to it, trapping the insect in place, and the only way out is backward over the pollen.

Once it breaks free, the beak-shaped labellum returns to its normal position and in doing so the male sawfly unwittingly pollinates the flower. This as a process known as pseudocopulation. Put simply, pseudocopulation is the name given to a reproductive function for one or both participants but which does not involve actual sexual union between the individuals.

Unfortunately it isn't yet possible to propagate the Flying Duck orchid, and this is because its roots have a symbiotic relationship with a specialist fungus only found in its native habitat.

THE STARFISH FLOWER - Stapelia flavopurpurea

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The Starfish flower - Stapelia flavopurpurea is one of the plant kingdoms great oddities. Native to the regions of Namibia, Botswana and the Northern Cape of South Africa, it is a species of plant from the Apocynaceae family.

The most interesting feature of this species is it striking, star-fish shaped flowers which are produced by the plant in summer or autumn, depending on the seasonal temperatures. They range from a bright yellow to greenish colour and have a fragrance reminiscent of liquorice. However, others believe it is more like beeswax!

The genus name 'Stapelia' was named after Johannes van Stapel, who published drawings and descriptions of the first Stapeliae discovered - Orbea variegata. The species name 'flavopurpurea' derives from the Latin words 'flavus' meaning 'yellow'  and 'purpureus' meaning 'purple.

The Starfish flower is not hardy and so if you are growing it in northern Europe then you will need to keep under protection as you would a typical house plant. While it may look like a cactus it is in fact a perennial succulent. It can be grown in a standard cactus compost, in bright, filtered light, with low humidity. During the growing season it can be watered moderately and fed every two or three weeks with a balanced liquid feed. Keep almost dry in the winter but water sparingly occasionally to prevent the stems form wrinkling.

The Starfish flower is easily propagated by taking cuttings of stem sections after the plant has flowered, but allow cut surface to callous over before planting.


CLEMATIS CIRRHOSA species and cultivars

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Clematis cirrhosa is an exquisite, evergreen climber that is native to the the sun-kissed lands of the Mediterranean.  It was originally introduced to England from the Balearic Islands (found off the southern coast of Spain) in 1783.

There is a specific variety of Clematis cirrhosa that is indigenous to the Balearic islands - Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica. Commonly called the Fern-leaved Clematis, this attractive and valuable species can be found on Majorca, Minorca, Corsica and Sardinia, growing along roadsides and in scrub. This particular variety produces pale yellow, spotted reddish-purple flowers throughout the winter.

Clematis cirrhosa has a habit of throwing out different colour variations in its flowers that can range from pure white or cream to those which are lightly speckled with red inside and occasionally some which are so heavily painted in red that the stain shows through to the backs of the petals.

These variations are clear in the named forms of  'Jingle Bells' (pure white with no spots); 'Wisley Cream' (creamy white, sometimes tinted green); 'Ourika Valley' (a prolific pale yellow); 'Freckles' (cream with bold red markings); 'Lansdowne Gem' (almost completely red); as well as var. balearica (creamy white, with a scattering of dainty reddish-brown speckles).

Like all early-flowering clematis, it requires little pruning other than the removal of any dead or damaged growth after flowering.  If you are growing it in a northern European climate then you will need to provide a warm, sheltered position to encourage it to flower well. It prefers full sun and will thrive in any fertile, well-drained soil.

When planting pot grown plants, plant with the crown 2–3 inches deeper than the soil surface to encourage shoots to grow from below ground level. In colder, more northern regions you may need to grow Clematis cirrhosa in a container and overwinter in a greenhouse or conservatory

But this isn't just a plant to be appreciated by gardeners, the local wildlife will benefit too! Finches will feed on the seeds themselves, while other birds will use the fluffy seed heads as nesting material in the spring. Perhaps more importantly the flowers provide early season nectar for foraging insects

HOW TO GROW POMEGRANATE FROM CUTTINGS

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Image credit Kris Peterson



Puncia is a small genus containing only two species. Of these two, Puncia granatum, commonly known as the Pomegranate, is the only one in general cultivation.

The pomegranate is a slow-growing, small tree which is native to Afghanistan, however is is cultivated and naturalised through the Mediterranean and the warmer regions of temperate Europe.

Taking cuttings from pomegranates is a relatively easy affair. There are two techniques employed, one for direct striking for warm Mediterranean climates and one for use under protection in northern European countries.

Propagation for Mediterranean climates

Cuttings are taken over winter from mature, one year old wood. Using a sharp, sterilised blade take as many 12-20 inches long cuttings as you require. All the leaves should be removed and the cuttings should be treated at the base with rooting hormone powder. Tap off an excess powder and insert the cuttings about two-thirds their length into well-drained soil either in a prepared bed or at their permanent position. Which ever you choose make sure that the cutting material is in a sunny position.

Those in the prepared bed can be lifted in 18-24 months once they have become dormant in preparation for winter. Once lifted they can be potted on into 10 litre pots using a good quality, well-drained potting compost or planted on into their final position.

Propagation for European climates

Image credit - http://westernfarmpress.com/orchard-crops/
Using a sharp, sterilised blade take 6 inch long cuttings of half-ripened lateral shoots with a heel in late July. Insert the cuttings in equal parts (by volume) moss peat and sand into a propagating frame at 16-18 degrees Celsius.

Once they have rooted, pot them into 3 inch pots containing a well-drained, good quality compost such as John Innes 'No 2', and over-winter them under protection such as a frost-free greenhouse.

Come the spring, repot into 4-5 inch pots and grow them on for a year. They will be ready for planting out or potting on in April or May of the following year.

THE BRIGHT FUTURE OF GARDEN BUILDINGS

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Garden buildings are often seen as the preserve of wealthy land owners but the reality is somewhat different. Even the humble shed can be considered as a garden building, but while that may not set most people’s imagination on fire there are plenty more substantial offerings that will.

Quality and construction have both come a long way in recent years. This has meant that garden buildings are no longer just suitable for keeping the weather off of your tools and furniture, they are built to an extremely high quality making them robust, long lasting and adaptable. This is leading to something of a mini revolution in construction, design and the use of modern materials.

We have seen the emergence of children's play houses progress from simple modified sheds to large scale purpose built miniature houses. Whilst the prices of such luxurious toys may be out of reach to many of us, the cost of a full-sized, full-blown summerhouse or log cabin can be surprisingly inexpensive by comparison. In fact, with the added investment of electric, plumbing and drainage you can create a spacious office or a 'home from home' for the fraction of the cost of a mobile office or brick built extension!

However for some ordering a cabin from a catalogue does not have the exclusivity they seek. But that doesn't mean there is no other choice. Companies such as TG Escapes specialise in hand-built, bespoke garden buildings. These truly are the Rolls Royce of garden buildings. In fact the very words 'garden building' do not do these impressive structures justice.

Given the space, planning permission and appropriate budget and you can go as far as building a fully stocked gym with changing rooms, conference halls or even a small scale education facility! Just make sure you get permission from your husband or wife first before you start signing the cheques.

DICENTRA CUCULLARIA - The Falling Angel Flower

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Dicentra cucullaria is one of only 20 species of hardy herbaceous perennials from within the Dicentra genus. It is a graceful plant which produces arching sprays of pendulous, pure white, yellow tipped flowers in May and June.

It is a native to the woods of eastern North America, with isolated populations in the Columbia River Basin. These western populations have sometimes been separated under the different name of Dicentra occidentalis, because they display coarser growth.

Image credit - http://www.edpostphotography.com/
It grows to a height of around 6 inches but produces its 1 inch long flowers on flower stalks up to 14 inches long.

Its has a couple of common names, notably 'Dutchman's Breeches', but the most appropriate is the 'Falling Angel' which reflects the bi-lobed, wing shaped flower. With a little imagination they really do look like upside-down angels falling to earth.

Interestingly, the Falling Angel has an unusual and 'less than angelic' way of propagation by seed. The seeds are spread by ants, in a process called known as myrmecochory. Each seed is contained within a fleshy organ, known as an elaiosome, which is attractive to ants. The ants collect the seeds and taken to their nest. They eat the elaiosomes, and afterwards remove the seeds which are taken and deposited in their nest debris. Here they are protected from being eaten until they germinate. They also get a head start by growing in a convenient 'compost medium' made rich by the nest debris.


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