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IMPATIENS NIAMNIAMENSIS - THE CONGO COCKATOO

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Impatiens niamniamensis is truly a marvel as far as exotic plants go. Commonly known as the 'Congo Cockatoo' it is an evergreen, perennial species that grows 2 to 3 feet tall, but give it the right environmental conditions and it can potentially reach a height of up to 4 feet!

It is a native to tropical Africa and as such makes it unsuitable for growing in northern Europe, unless you can provide protection of the winter months.

While it will need growing temperatures above 45°F (7°C), it is surprisingly tough and can survive down to about 35°F (2°C). However that is a little close to the bone as it is easily damaged by the lightest of frosts.

What truly sells this plant are its incredibly bright and colourful, shrimp-shaped flowers. Each large, 1½ inch blooms is painted scarlet red and yellow, with a lime green hood.  Surprisingly, these exotic blooms emerge all over the plant in an explosion of blooms, even on the old wood!.

Once established, the frame of the plant develops into a stocky, open habit reminiscent of a bonsai tree.

Image credit - http://momentaryvitality.tumblr.com/
This is enhanced as the green, new growth matures to a more acceptable brown. Like other large specimen impatiens the stems are actually succulent and flexible.

As tropical plants go Impatiens niamniamensis requires little maintenance so long as you can provide high humidity and plant it into a really well-drained soil. It will need to be kept out of direct sunlight to prevent scorching, but bright shade or filtered sunlight is fine. Water as much as you like over the summer but when it is lifted and potted on for moving under protection over winter, allow the soil surface to dry out before watering again. Fortunately it grows well indoors in a pot so it is worth considering growing it as a house plant.

THE ORCHID MANTIS

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When it comes plant mimicry, the Orchid Mantis - Hymenopus coronatus is undeniably one of the very best. It is a native to the rain forests of south-east Asia (including Malaysia and Indonesia), and is just one of several species known as flower mantises, so called because of their resemblance and behaviour to the local flora.

Most orchid mantises are white, but there is a pink to purplish colour morph that is very popular with collectors.

They are also characterized by an exoskeleton that has been highly adapted for camouflage. This combination is used to great effect, mimicking parts of the orchid flower.

The four walking legs have specialised lobes which resemble flower petals, while these lobes are not present on the toothed front pair of legs they are still camouflaged in colour and used for grasping prey as seen in other mantises.

Amazingly, the orchid mantis can change its colour between pink and brown, depending on the colour of the background.

Its natural habitat consists of white and pink flowers in bushes and small trees. In this way the mantis can remain unseen for predators such as birds and at the same time can catch pollinating insects that are attracted to the flowers.

But while these impressive insects have evolved over millions of years to look like flowers, it is only to the human eye that this similarity to orchids exists as they do not in fact have a relationship with, or live on orchid plants.

When hunting, the orchid mantis climbs up and down the twigs of close plants until it finds one that has flowers.

It holds on to these with the claws of its two rearmost pairs of legs, then gently sways its body from side to side.

Various small flies will land on and around it. This is because they are attracted by a small black spot on the end of its abdomen which resembles a fly.

small flies are generally ignored, but when a larger fly approaches the mantis will seize it as soon as it is within in range of its front toothed legs. It is then immediately eaten.

THE WORLD'S BIGGEST SPIDER

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Up until recently, the title holder for the Worlds Largest Spider was well and truly established. It was held by the  Goliath birdeater, a massive spider from the upland rainforest regions of northern South America and a member of the tarantula family. While it is still considered to be the world's biggest spider according to its mass, there is a new kid on the block which easily trumps it in shear size - the Giant Huntsman spider!

The Giant Huntsman Spider recent discovery was in 2001 in a Cave in Laos. It is the largest member of the Sparassidae family, boasting an impressive 1.8 inches body-length and an incredible 12 inch leg-span which makes it about the size of a dinner plate!

These Giant Huntsman spiders are often mistaken for tarantulas because of their size, however you can easily tell them apart because of their unique crab-like legs which allow them to move side to side with incredible speed and agility.

Although they can produce silk these spiders don't usually build webs. As their name suggests, the Giant Huntsman tends to stalk and hunt down their prey. When they attack they inject venom into their prey, but because spiders are unable to 'eat' their victims as they have a narrow gut that can only cope with liquid food. They pump digestive enzymes from the mid-gut into the prey and then suck the liquefied tissues of the prey into the gut, eventually leaving behind the empty husk of the prey.

The Giant Huntsman mainly feeds on insects and small  lizard, but sometimes bigger predators such as birds or geckos can themselves become prey.

Luckily, they're venom is not fatal to humans though their bite is very painful. Symptoms can include some swelling of the skin, nausea, vomiting and headaches.

These spiders only live about 2 years and amazingly they're able to regenerate lost limbs.

 
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Valid until December 2013.

THE ANGEL ORCHID

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Image credit - sumukha13@gmail.com




Native to the open high altitude grasslands of southern India, the Angel orchid - Habenaria Grandifloriformis is one of the gems of the orchid world. First described in 1932 by the scientists Blatt and McCan, it is a small terrestrial herb, growing to about 5 inches high. During the growing season it usually produces just a single, heart shaped and rounded leaf which lies flat on the ground.

The exquisite flowers are white in 1-5 bundles with bilobed petals and if you look closely enough bare a striking resemblance to a cloaked angel! The flowers, which are mildly fragrant, are produced June to July and is one of the first orchids to flower at the the onset of monsoons.

The Angel orchid is rarely seen in cultivation, but as a rule they are best grown in deep pots in a well drained medium consisting of 50% river sand, 40% leaf mulch and 10% vermiculite. Plant the tubers at about 4 inches deep and keep in a temperate environment with 50-70% shading and excellent ventilation.

Water the Angel orchid regularly during the growing season, from spring to autumn. As soon as autumn cooling sets in reduce watering to once every two weeks. During cold winter months you will need to stop watering altogether. The compost needs to be dry but not so dry that the compost dehydrates completely. To prevent this, occasionally drench the pot and allow once more to dry. Only after new shoots emerge at the end of winter should you commence watering, but only then once every two weeks for the spring and then once or twice a week as required during the summer. A slow release fertilizer can be applied during spring.

The Angel flower can be prone to infestation from aphids.

PASSIFLORA ALATA

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Passiflora alata is arguably the most exotic and impressive of all the passionflower species. Like other species from the passiflora family, Passiflora alata is an evergreen vine, growing to 20 ft or more. It is well known in folk medicine throughout South America because of its sedative and tranquillizer activities. However, the exact pharmacological composition of the plant is little understood

It is native to the Amazon, from Peru to eastern Brazil, and bears an egg-shaped, yellow to bright orange, edible fruit which is prized by local people.

Its sub-tropical to tropical origins mean that it is not suitable for growing outside in a northern European garden as it does not cope well with temperatures below 4 degrees Celsius. Even so,it may survive outside in warmer areas if the wood has been well-ripened in summer.

In cooler areas, Passiflora alata is better off grow in a greenhouse border or a large container filled with a loam-based potting compost. Place in full light, but with some shade to protect it from scorching from hot sun. Ventilate freely when temperatures exceed 21 degrees Celsius, and keep the atmosphere humid by damping down the floor. Syringe the flowers to encourage the fruits to set.

No feeding is required but a light annual mulch in March of well-rotted compost or farm-manure. In winter keep the plants just on the moist side, but you can water freely during the spring and summer.

Passiflora alata has been given an Award of Garden Merit (AGM), by the Royal Horticultural Society which is given to plants of outstanding excellence.

THE LADY IN THE BATH FLOWER

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It is a flowering plant that you may well be familiar with, but the obscure common name for Dicentra spectabilis - 'The lady in the Bath' - couldn't be more perfect!

Reminiscent of a Victorian, roll-top bath, the pink outer petals open up to reveal an elongated protective structure within. With a little imagination this white structure appears to be a willowy figure sitting up in the bath.

Of course, the above image has been inverted to prove the aptness of the 'Lady in the Bath' common name, but in nature the flower hangs downwards on arching flower stems. Viewing each flower the correct way up, and not quite so 'blown', they strikingly resemble the conventional heart shape, with a droplet beneath - hence the more popular common name - Bleeding Heart.

Native to Siberia, northern China, Korea and Japan, Dicentra spectabilis  (now correctly named as Lamprocapnos spectabilis), the 'Lady in the Bath' was introduced into England in the 1840's from Japan by the Scottish botanist and plant hunter Robert Fortune.

It requires a moist and cool climate which makes it ideal for growing in a northern European climate. Dicentra spectabilis will happily grow in full sun, but in warmer and drier climates it will requires some shade to prevent scorching.

These images are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

HOW TO GROW THE BLEEDING HEART - Dicentra spectabilis

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The 'Bleeding Heart' - Dicentra spectabilis is one of the most popular of all the early flowering herbaceous perennials, and why wouldn't it be. The emerging foliage is so fresh and succulent that it looks good enough to eat (don't eat the foliage) and the beautifully heart-shaped flowers produced on arching stems are truly exquisite.

It is a native to Siberia, northern China, Korea and Japan, and it is from Japan that a legend behind the 'Bleeding Heart' name originates.

'...It begins with a young man who is trying to win the heart of the one he loves. 

As a gift he gave her a pair of rabbits which represents the first two petals of the flower. Sadly for the young man she was unimpressed, but he wasn't to be disheartened and so gave her a second gift of a pair of slippers which are portrayed by the next two petals of the flower.

 Again she rejected his advances and as one last attempt to win her affection gave a final gift of a pair of earrings which are shown as the last two petals of the flower. She refused to show interest, and completely heart-broken, the young man pierced his heart with his sword which caused the bleeding heart (depicted by the middle structure of the flower) . A sad tale indeed..!'

Luckily for us, despite its delicate demeanour Dicentra spectabilis is surprisingly tough and more than capable of surviving in a northern European climate. They will perform best planted in a moist and cool climate, planted into any well-drained soil enriched with moss-peat or leaf mold. Keep them sheltered from late spring frosts, strong winds and the mid-day sun.  It can be grow in full sun, but in warmer and drier climates it will require some shade.The heart-shaped flowers will appear in May and June.

Dicentra spectabilis can be propagated by division from October and March. Divide and replant the roots during suitable weather. It can also be grown from seed but only that which has been freshly collected. Sow in seed trays using a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' and keep at a germination temperature of 15 degrees Celsius.

Prick out the seedlings into 3 inch pots and harden them off in a cold frame for a few weeks before planting them out into their final position outside.


THE BEE ORCHIDS

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The bee orchids - Ophrys species, are one of natures most amazing mimics. First mentioned in the book "Natural History" by Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD), Ophrys species are a large group of ground orchids which inhabit a huge range that stretches from the central to South Europe, North Africa, and Asia Minor, up to the Caucasus Mountains. Although they clearly at home around the Mediterranean, for those of us who live in the colder climates of the United Kingdom there is at least one species - Ophrys apifera that can be found inhabiting dry, chalk and limestone grasslands throughout the southern and central regions.

The Bee Orchid gets its name from its main pollinator, the bee, which is thought to have driven the evolution of its flowers. It also turns out that every Ophrys orchid has its own pollinator insect and is completely dependent on this species for its survival. This is all of them except for the British Opyrys apifera as its species specific bee does not occur in the UK. Here, the Bee Orchids are self-pollinating.

Incredibly, it is not just the shape of the Bee Orchid flower that is used to attract its pollinator bee, these highly complex plants also use sexual deception! This is achieved by producing the sex pheromone of virgin female pollinators. This stimulate mating behaviour in the male pollinators, which then attempt to mate with the flower, as process known as 'pseudocopulation'.

During pseudocopulation, pollen from the flower becomes attached to part of the bee, usually the head or abdomen. The bee then inadvertently carries and transfers this pollen to other flowers where once again they are enticed into pseudocopulation. It is at this stage that pollination is successfully completed.

All Ophrys orchids are dormant over the summer, surviving underground as bulbous tubers.

In late summer/autumn a rosette of leaves will emerge above round and serves to allow the plant to grow a new tuber. This will matures until the following spring, and take the place of the old tuber which will slowly die back and disappear. Come the following spring the flowering stem will be produced.

As a point of interest, the botabical name Ophrys come from the Greek word for "eyebrow". This referrs to the furry edges of the lips of several species.

 All orchids are protected under CITES II and should not be removed or disturbed in habitat.

THE LEAF INSECTS

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The Phylliidae family of leaf insects contains some of nature greatest plant mimics. Native throughout south and south-east Asia to Australia, leaf insects use camouflage to take on the appearance of a leaf in order to hide from preditors. They do this so accurately that their predators are rarely able to distinguish them from real leaves.

In some species the edge of the leaf insect's body has  even evolved the appearance of bite marks to further confound a predators gaze, but it doesn't stop there. When the leaf insect walks, it rocks back and forth, to mimic a real leaf being blown by the wind.

The abdomen shows veins like leaves have and the legs are equipped with lobes. They are often bright green like a young leaf, but occasionally there are brown, yellow. There are even pinkish variants of this species.

Incredibly the leaf insect is capable of regenerating lost limbs. If it loses its limb it can replace it the next time it moults. However, once it has reached its adulthood, it will no longer be able to replace the lost limbs as at this point it no longer has the capacity to moult.

The difference between males and female can be sizeable once they become adult. The females are larger, thicker and wider than the males. The males are considerably smaller and slender. Adult females have broad wings what lay flat on their back, but they lack the under-wings that are necessary for flight. The males also have very long antennae.

Even when the leaf insects are still nymphs you can see the difference in body size and shape between males and females. The female has large leathery forewings (tegmina) that lie edge to edge on the abdomen and resemble, in their vein pattern, the midrib and veins in a leaf. Females are flightless and so the hindwings have no function. The male has small tegmina and ample, non-leaflike, functional hindwings. Newly hatched young are reddish in colour and become green after feeding on leaves.

These images are is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. Authors - Nandini Velho and Sandilya Theuerkauf

BUY BAOBAB TREE SEEDS

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If you are looking to purchase Baobab tree seeds then you are in luck as the 'Seeds of Eaden' on-line seed shop now carries baobab tree seed as part of their 'Rare and Exotic Plants' range.

Commonly known as the 'Upside-down tree', a mature baobab can reach a giddy height of between 50-70ft in its natural environment.

The genus of baobab trees - Adansonia contains nine species of tree, including six native to Madagascar, two native to mainland Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, and one native to Australia.

All baobab species occur in seasonally arid areas, and are deciduous, shedding their leaves during the dry season.

The Baobab trees unusually swollen trunk is due to its ability to store water in it so that it is able to endure the harsh drought conditions particular to each region.

While it can be difficult to replicate the conditions required to grow a Baobab tree successfully outside, they are relatively easy to grow from seed and can be kept as a house plant or bonsai.

How to grow a Baobab tree from seed

Before anything else, soak the seeds in fairly hot water for 2 hours. If the seeds are particularly large then they can first be lightly filed at one point on the seed before soaking. This will help to encourage earlier germination

Baobab seed
Sow Baobab seeds in either trays or pots containing a good quality seed compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Planting seed approximately 1/2 in. deep in the compost and water well using warm water.

Place the seeds into a heated propagator or warm place and maintain an optimum temperature between 25-27 Celsius. The seeds can now be moved to a sunny position.

Be aware tat the germination rate for baobab seeds can be slow and sporadic so sow two to three times the amount of seed required to ensure you get enough stock.

Transplant seedlings when large enough to handle into 3 inch pots and pot on as required into 5 inch and finally 8 inch pots.

Grow in good light, don't over-water and provide a minimum winter temperature of 10-13 Celsius.

Main image care of Nachoman-au - this file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

Secondry image care of Bernard Gagnon - this file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported, 2.5 Generic, 2.0 Generic and 1.0 Generic license.

THE SNAIL VINE - Vigna caracalla

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Although the common name 'Snail Vine' isn't the most appealing, it is appropriate. However, the snail-like flowers of Vigna caracalla do not represent the the body of the mollusc (that wouldn't be particularly attractive), instead the juvenile flowers have a striking similarity to the snails shell. In fact the species name 'caracalla' is a corruption of the Portuguese word 'caracol', meaning snail.

 So beautiful are that Thomas Jefferson (American Founding Father, principal author of the Declaration of Independence (1776) and the third President of the United States) was moved to call this plant '...the most beautiful bean in the world...'

Native to tropical South America and Central America, this perennial climber produces fragrant flowers in late summer or autumn and are said to be reminiscent of hyacinths.

The reason why the snail vine has evolved such an unusually shaped flower maybe down to its preferred pollinator. Unlike most other flowering plants that are pollinated by flying insects such as bees and butterflies, the snail vine is pollinated by ants!

The snail vine is from the Leguminosae family so unsurprisingly the seeds grow inside pods, like pea pods. If you wish to germinate these seeds then the pods should be removed from the plant while they are still green and brought under warm, dry conditions to prevent exposure to winter temperatures.

Gardenofeaden.com



HOW TO GROW THE SNAIL VINE FROM SEED

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The Snail Vine is a native to tropical South America and Central America, and while that means it is not hardy enough to survive outside in a northern European climate, it will grow quite happily in a pot outside so long as it is brought under protection over the winter.

The Snail vine prefers full sun and a consistently damp soil.  It also goes without saying that because of its tropical origins it prefers high heat and humidity.

While it is unusual to find the Snail Vine for sale in your local plant retailers (at least it is in northern Europe) they are relatively easy to grow from seed. If you live in a Mediterranean climate or warmer then Snail Vine seeds can be grown from seed outside in their final position. Just plant the seeds in any ordinary soil in a sunny area once all dangers of frost has passed in the spring.

How to grow the Snail Vine from seed under protection

In cooler climates you can commence sowing Snail Vine seeds from the middle of April onwards. Like the sweet pea climber (to which they are related) Snail Vine seeds need to be chipped or soaked in tepid warm for 1-2 hours.

Sow Snail Vine seed two to tree inches apart in pots or trays on the surface of a good compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Lightly cover with more compost or fine grade vermiculite until the seed is just covered. Firm lightly and keep the compost evenly moist.

Image credit - http://newsprout.blogspot.co.uk/
Place inside a heated propagator at a temperature of between 21-25 Celsius or seal the container inside a plastic bag and place on a warm, bright windowsill. Germination should occur within 14-30 days. Once germinated, remove from the propagator or bag and position the young Snail Vine plants into cooler environmental conditions.

When seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant into 3 inch pots and grow them on in warm, bright, frost free conditions. Pot on as required into progressively larger pots using a good quality, well-drained compost such as John Innes 'No. 2'. Support the twining stems with an appropriate frame, or provide trellis or horizontal wires if you are growing outside.

Feed and water your Snail Vines regularly throughout the growing season, but reduce this to just moderately over the winter.

If you are growing your Snail Vine plants in large containers then they can be positioned outdoors on a sunny patio in summer, but then they will nee to be brought in to a bright warm greenhouse or conservatory for the winter and kept at a minimum temperature of 15°Celsius.

Gardenofeaden.com

BUY PAULOWNIA TOMENTOSA SEED

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Image credit - http://www.plants.com.pk/

I was in southern Spain when I came across my first, fully grown Foxglove tree - Paulownia tomentosa in flower. It was alongside the hot and dusty mud track that led to a field the holding the Thursday market. I remember it distinctly because the dramatic colour of those stunning blueish/violet flowers was so intense that it almost hurt my eyes to look at them! God's truth! And let's be honest, how often do you come across a bright blue tree?

Image credit - http://www.anniesannuals.com/
Since that day they have always been a favourite of mine, and better still they are hardy enough to survive in northern European gardens so long as they are grown in a sheltered position. See, life is good.

The foxglove tree is considered to be a small to medium sized tree growing to between 15-25 ft tall and 10-15 ft wide. They have an open, rounded habit.

Over the winter the foxglove tree has these fascinating brown-felted flower buds, but in exposed gardens these can become damaged.

The foxglove tree requires a sunny, sheltered position in a deep, well-drained, loamy soil. The best time to plant them is between October and March.

Normally, no pruning is necessary, but the foxglove tree is often grown as dot plants in in bedding or herbaceous schemes. If this is the case then they will need to be cut down to ground level each year in March. This will encourage vigorous shoots clad with exceptionally large leaves. However, these 'stooled' plants will not produce any flowering shoots.

How to grow the foxglove tree from seed

Image credit - http://paulownia-cfi.com/
Foxglove seed can be sown at any time of year in trays or pots containing a good quality, well-drained seed compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'.

Give the seed a light covering of compost but not so much that it excludes light as this is necessary for germination. Gently water and place in a propagator or warm place to maintain an optimum temperature of 65-70 F (18-20 C). Allow the top inch of the compost to dry out before watering.

Alternatively, if your are sowing foxglove seed in march or April, they can be placed outside in a cold-frame.

Germination usually takes 21-60 days. When the seedlings are large enough to be transplanted, they can be potted on into 3 inch pots. Grow on in a cold frame and plant out the following spring 12 inches apart.

For related articles click onto;
Bird of Paradise Flower
Gardenofeaden.com
Gasteria maculata
Growing Lavender
Hardy Banana Plants
Hibiscus
How to Break Dormancy in Seeds
How to Grow Foxgloves from Seed - By Terence Baker
How to Grow Hibiscus
How to Grow Banana Trees from Seed
How to Grow Roses from Cuttings
How to Grow the Sago Palm from Seed
How to Propagate lavender from Cuttings?
How to Take Cuttings from Box Hedging
How to Take Cuttings from Clematis
How to Take Chrysanthemum Cuttings
How to take Cuttings from Fuchsia
How to Take Cuttings from Lavender
How to take Cuttings from Rosemary
How to Take Hydrangea Cuttings
How to Take Hardwood Cuttings
Lavender
Lotus berthelotii
Monkey Tree
Plants
Rosemary
Strelitzia
The Foxglove Tree
The Hardy Begonia - Begonia grandis
The Monkey Puzzle Tree - Araucaria araucana
The Snowdrop
What is an F1 Hybrid?
What is Lavender?
What is Lobelia?
What is Seed Dormancy?
When and how should you prune back Lavender?

BUY BAOBAB SEED

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Growing a full sized baobab tree is definitely not for the faint hearted, especially if - like me - you live in a northern European climate. Without a large, heated greenhouse - or better still have the resources of Kew gardens in your pocket - you are setting yourself up for failure  Why, because unless you can reproduce a tropical climate, near equatorial light levels, and minimum winter temperatures of 15 degrees Celsius or higher, your germinating seedlings are never going to see out the year! Of course, if you want to grow your baobab tree as a house plant or bonsai then things becomes a lot easier.

Baobab fruit
But its not all bad, because if you are lucky enough to live somewhere on the planet that can supply most of what the baobab tree requires, then the chances are that with a little bit of 'environmental tweeking' you will be able to succeed in growing your very own baobab tree.

All you need now is an elephant!

Baobab trees are conspicuous in their native landscape, standing like sentinels in a challenging and 'resource poor' environment. And there is a reason for this.

Water is scarce and the last thing that a baobab tree is another baobab tree growing right next to it competing for such a precious commodity. So it turns out that the baobab has a trick up its sleeve - the baobab fruit!

The baobab fruit has a rich, velvety, yoghurt flavour with a hint of sherbet, and now we get to the point where the elephant comes in. They are quite partial to baobab fruit and as the seed from the fruit spends the next 4-5 hours passing through the elephants digestive tract, the seeds tough coat is slowly broken down by the hot stomach acids.

Baobab seeds
Eventually the baobab seeds are deposited some distance away, ready to germinate, and packaged in a very convenient blob of steaming fertilizer.

Of course, not everyone has a spare elephant handy and so you will need to replicate the digesting process as best you can. Typically soaking baobab seed in hot water for 24 hours will do the trick. You can cheat a bit here by rubbing the seed with sandpaper or a nail-file to reduce the thickness of the seed coat. Only scrape enough of the baobab seeds to expose the inner white layer, do not go any deeper. After they have been soaked they will then need to be dried for another day or so before planting. The germination rate for baobab seeds can be low, slow and sporadic so sow two to three times the amount of seed required to ensure you get enough stock. Be aware that it can take 3-4 months from your first Baobab seedling to germinate until your last one pokes its head above the compost.

Baobab seedling
It is imperative that you use a very well-drained growing medium. You can use a standard seed compost - such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' but you will need to mix in an equal part of horticultural grit or perlite to improve the drainage further.

In order to germinate the baobab seeds the soil temperature will need to be kept at between 15 and 19 degrees Celsius, so unless you are blessed with these temperature naturally you will need to keep your compost - presumably held in a seed tray - in a heated propagator.

Planting seed approximately 1/2 in. deep in the compost and water well using warm water. The seeds can now be moved to a sunny position. Considering the baobabs natural environment, they will need as much light as possible.

Only water again when the growing medium is barely moist to the touch. Even then, do not soak them. Half water them, keeping the seeds barely moist as baobab seedlings are very prone to root rot. Please note that once the seedlings show through the compost, do not attempt to remove the shell covering.

Mature Baobab
Transplant the seedlings when they are large enough to handle into 3 inch pots, again using a very free draining compost. You can pot on as required into 5 inch and finally 8 inch pots.

Always remember that the Baobab will require as much light as you can provide and may even benefit from supplemental lighting. Furthermore, absolutely no water must be given to the tree during its dormant period in the winter months or it will rot and die.

If it is warm enough for you to overwintering your Baobab outside then it will need to be under protection from the rain - just make sure that it is fully ventilated to prevent fungal rots.

Make sure that winter temperatures do not drop below 10 degrees Celsius. If this is likely then the Baobab will need to be brought in under temperature controlled protection such as the sunniest room in the house or a heated greenhouse.

For more information click onto:
How to Grow Amaryllis from Seed
How to Grow the Baobab from Seed
How to Grow Banana Trees from Seed
How to Grow Citrus from Seed
How to Grow Daffodils
Growing Geraniums from Seed
How to Grow Bougainvillea?
How to Grow Chillies
How to Grow Dahlias
How to Grow Dahlias from Seed
How to Grow Eucomis
How to Grow Hibiscus
How to Grow Lobelia from Seed?
How to Grow Eucomis Plants from Seed
How to Grow the Glory Lily from Seed
How to Grow Hardy Passion Flowers from Seed
How to Grow Himalayan Blue Poppy - Meconopsis betonicifolia from Seed
How to Grow a Lemon Tree from Seed
How to Grow Crocus from Seed
How to Grow Native Wild Primroses and Polyanthus from Seed
How to Grow an Orange Tree from Seed
How to Grow Raspberries
How to Grow Species Tulips from Seed
How to Grow Tulips?
How to take Cuttings from Roses
How to Over-Winter Lily Bulbs
How to Over-Winter the Glory Lily
How to Plant and Grow the Glory Lily
How to propagate and Grow Eucomis from Leaf Cuttings
How to Propagate and Grow Mistletoe
How to Propagate Box Hedging
How to Propagate Cowslips and Primroses
How to propagate Daffodils and Narcissus
How to Propagate Dahlias
How to Propagate and Grow Mistletoe
How to Propagate Hellebores
How to Propagate Hyacinths
How to Propagate Snowdrops
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Kesar
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MINA LOBATA - The Spanish Flag

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Image credit - http://www.kupindo.com/


Mina lobata is a tender, annual climbing plant that is notable for its spectacular combination of flame-crimson, cream and yellow flowers. It gets its common name the 'Spanish Flag' for two reasons. Firstly, the flowers are produced all on one side, like a flag in the wind. Secondly, the predominately red and white colouring of the Mina lobata flower roughly matches the 'Cross of Burgandy' flag. This was the Spanish military flag from 1506-1701, and also used as the flag for Spanish Overseas Territories.

Mina lobata is a  native to Mexico, Central and South America, so the name 'Spanish Flag' is not just purely down to its colouration but is also a reminder of Spanish colonisation.

It was first described in Flora Brasiliensis by Carl Friedrich Philipp von Martius, a German botanist and explorer.

He travelled through Brazil in search of economically viably plants during the exhibition of 1817-1820.

While the scientific name Mina lobata is the one one most associated with the 'Spanish Flag', it is no longer appropriate. it has already been superseded twice. First by Quamoclit lobata, and now by its correct scientific name of Ipomoea lobata, which puts it in the 'Morning Glory' family. While it may be scientifically correct, it does not have the typical saucer flower of its close relations.

On each spike of flowers the buds emerge in deep fiery orange red and then steadily fade to pale cream. This means that for most of the life of each spike there are flowers in a succession of shades.

Each plant, which will grow between 5 and 8 feet in height, depending on the soil and season. Mina lobata is a prolific flower which is made all the more impressive by the back drop of dark green, boldly lobed foliage.

There are three forms of 'Spanish Flag' which have gained awards. These include the true species Mina lobata, and its two cultivars ‘Exotic Love’ and ‘Jungle Queen’. All three are very similar but the two cultivars showed an additional feature where the new foliage opens with a purple pigmentation before fading to green. Mina lobata ‘Jungle Queen’ is a little less prolific.



THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' - THE WORLD'S GREATEST ON-LINE SEED SHOP

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After much anticipation the 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop is finally open. In order to experience what is my opinion 'The World's Greatest on-line Seed Shop' you can click onto the following link.

SEEDS OF EADEN

All seeds are available for international delivery (conditions apply) and payments can be made in all major currencies.

The 'Seeds of Eaden' web-based seed shop is the latest addition to the Eaden family of on-line, horticultural resources.

The 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop supplies the very best range of high quality, tried and tested seeds. We also aim, wherever possible, to include the history and stories behind the plants.

Along with concise cultivation details, we hope to create a comprehensive plant database of available seed stock for gardeners and horticulturists alike.

Where appropriate we have selected plant species and their cultivars which have either been thoroughly trialled for their suitability or have received the coveted Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).

The Award of Garden Merit  is intended to be of practical value to the home gardener. It is awarded therefore only to plants that have met the following criteria:

* Excellent for ordinary use in appropriate conditions.
* Good availability.
* Proven to be of good constitution.
* Stable in form and colour.
* Reasonably resistant to pests and diseases.

If you have any queries or problems then please do not hesitate to contact me at gardenofeaden@gmail.com or by using the comments below.

Happy shopping and don't forget to share this post with all your friends.

WHAT IS A DUCK-BILLED PLATYPUS

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The Duck-Billed Platypus (now more commonly known as just 'Platypus') is a semi-aquatic carnivore that lives in underground burrows found by small streams and rivers. It is an excellent swimmer and feeds on annelid worms, insect larvae, freshwater shrimps, and freshwater crayfish that it digs out of the riverbed with its snout, or catches while swimming.

It's habitat is quite diverse ranging from the cold highlands of Tasmania and the Australian Alps, to the tropical rainforests of coastal Queensland. However the Platypus is best known for being one of natures most bizarre looking creatures.

Artist - John Gould (1804–1881)
So strange is its appearance that when a pelt and sketch of a Platypus was sent back to Great Britain by Captain John Hunter, the second Governor of New South Wales, British scientists' initially believed that it was a hoax.

In fact, George Shaw, who produced the first description of the animal in the Naturalist's Miscellany in 1799, stated it was impossible not to entertain doubts as to its genuine nature. It was believed my many that a duck's beak had been sown onto the body of a beaver-like animal. Shaw even took a pair of scissors to the dried skin to check for stitches!

Of course, modern scientists now know that the Platypus is a true animal and a genuine miracle of nature. It is one of only five species of mammals (known as Monotremes) that lay eggs instead of giving birth, it is the sole living representative of its family Ornithorhynchidae, and it is also one of only a few venomous mammals. Strangely, only the male platypus is venomous which it is able to deliver from a spur on the hind foot.

The Platypus bill

The bill of the Platypus is an incredible piece of biological engineering. It is a specialised sensory organ with electroreceptors located in rows just under the skin.  Monotremes are the only mammals (apart from at least one species of dolphin) known to have a sense of electroreception. They use it locate their prey in part by detecting electric fields generated by muscular contractions. The platypus' electroreception is the most sensitive of any monotreme.

By using electroreception the platypus can determine the direction of an electric source, which explains the characteristic side-to-side motion of the animal's head while hunting. So sensitive is the platypus' electroreception sense that when it dives for feeding its eyes, ears, and nose are closed.

Click here for related articles:
Duck-Billed Platypus - Amazing Facts
What is a Duck-Billed Platypus?

DUCK-BILLED PLATYPUS - AMAZING FACTS!

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The Duck-billed Platypus is undoubtedly one of natures great oddities. In fact so strange is its appearance that when a pelt and sketch of a Platypus was sent back to Great Britain in 1798 by Captain John Hunter (the second Governor of New South Wales), British scientists' initially believed it was a hoax! Of course you can't really blame them as taxidermy was a popular trade during this period and exotic oddities could fetch high prices on the open market.

Be that as it may, the fact remains that the Duck-Billed Platypus really does look like some maniacal mind has taken the body of a beaver and cleverly glued otter feet and a birds beak to it. However, its peculiar looks are not the Duck-Billed Platypus's most interesting feature.

I give you my top amazing facts for the Duck-Billed Platypus:

1. Together with just four species of spiny anteaters, it is one of the five species of monotremes alive in the world today. What is a monotreme? It is a mammal that lay eggs instead of giving birth to live young - incredible!

2. The Platypus is one of just a handful of  venomous mammals, however it is only the male which is capable of producing venom. The male platypus delivers the venom via a spur on the hind foot.

3. The Platypus is genuinely unique as it is sole living representative of its family Ornithorhynchidae, though a number of related species have been found in the fossil record.

4. Apart from at least one species of dolphin, Monotremes are known to have a sense of electroreception. This is the ability to locate their prey in part by detecting electric fields generated by muscular contractions. The platypus' electroreception is the most sensitive of any monotreme.

5. Recent research has discovered that the eyes of the platypus are more similar to those of Pacific hagfish or Northern Hemisphere lampreys than to those of most land mammals. Also it contains double cones, which most mammals do not have. This hints to an ancestry of highly efficient land predators!

For related articles click onto the following links:
Duck-Billed Platypus - Amazing Facts

IS A KOALA BEAR A BEAR?

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Is a Koala Bear a true bear? This is a very good question and you would think that by being called a 'Koala Bear', the koala would indeed be from the bear family! However the name Koala Bear is not a scientific name and instead is a common name that came about due to the koala's resemblance to a small bear. And you can see why as the Koala has a stout, tailless body, round, fluffy ears, and large, spoon-shaped nose, just like a real bear.

The koala in fact an arboreal herbivorous marsupial native to Australia. It is the only extant representative of the family Phascolarctidae, and its closest living relatives are the wombats.

So if you are looking for some one to blame for the 'Bear' name then you can look towards the early British settlers.

They arrived in Australia's eastern half of the continent which was claimed by Great Britain in 1770 and settled through penal transportation to the colony of New South Wales from 26 January 1788 onwards.

So what is a Koala Bear?

As mentioned before the Koala is a marsupial. This means that it is still classed as a mammal, but one which is characterised by giving birth to relatively undeveloped young. The young koala, which is known as a joey, resides in a pouch with the mother where they stay for the first six to seven months of their life. Once inside the pouch the baby Koala will latch onto a teat for food. They are fully weaned at around a year and the joey will only re-emerge once it has developed fully.

Image credit - http://www.hdwallpaperstop.com/
Koalas are typically found in open eucalyptus woodlands. This is because eucalyptus leaves make up most of their diet. However, this eucalyptus leaf diet has limited nutritional and caloric content, and so koalas are largely sedentary and sleep for up to 20 hours a day.

As cute and cuddly as they are, Koalas are not particularly social animals with bonding really only existing between mothers and dependent offspring.

Adult males communicate with loud bellows that intimidate rivals and attract mates. In fact recent research has discovered that have evolved a specialised vocal organ that allows them to produce very low-pitched sound. Amazingly, he pitch of the bellow is about 20 times lower than would be expected for an animal of its size, and is more typical of an animal the size of an elephant.

Male Koalas make their territories known by marking their presence with secretions from scent glands located on their chests.

For related articles click onto the following links:
Is a Koala Bear a Bear?

HOW TO GROW CUCUMBERS FROM SEED

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Image credit - http://leckerandyummyrecipes.blogspot.co.uk/




While the cucumber is a mainstay of almost every single home-made salad, it has unfortunately become a completely under-rated crop. The reason behind this is that they are ubiquitous in supermarkets and to be perfectly honest they are fairly tasteless. This isn't the fault of the cucumber itself, but down to the quality specifications imposed by the supermarkets and the all-year-round production techniques employed by the growers.

If you want to experience a genuinely meaty and flavoursome cucumber then there is a way, and that is to grow your own cucumbers from seed.

Luckily for us they are a fairly simple crop to grow, but because they originate from Southern Asia they will need similar temperatures and light levels in order for the fruit (yes, a cucumber is a fruit). This would mean growing your cucumbers under the protection of a greenhouse.

At least it would be if it wasn't for those clever, lab-coated plant breeders who have developed a number of cultivars that can now be grown quite happily outside.

Greenhouse cucumbers

If you do own a greenhouse then growing cucumbers under protection will be the best way forward and you will be able to produce fruit similar to that found in the supermarkets. They won't need to be pollinated, and in fact you should remove any male flowers as pollinated fruits will develop a bitter flavour. If this also seems too much work the plant breeders have also developed ‘all female’ flowering F1 hybrid varieties such as Cucumber ‘Flamingo’.

Outdoor cucumbers

Outdoor varieties are known as ridge cucumbers. They tend to be shorter that traditional cucumbers and have a rougher skin.

Of course they have the important advantage of being able to produce fruit outside, so they are the perfect choice if you do not have a greenhouse.

Ridge cucumbers produce male and female flowers, and these will need to be pollinated. Luckily this is something that you will not need to worry about either as insects will do the job for you.

Growing cucumbers from seed

It doesn't matter of you are choosing to grow indoor or outdoor cucumber cultivars as their seeds will both need to be to sown in a propagator from early March to April. If you miss this opportunity then you can get away with direct sowing outdoor varieties from May to June.

Sow cucumber seed on their sides at a depth of ½ inch, at a rate of one seed per 3 inch pots containing a good quality, free-draining compost such as John Innes 'Seeds and Cutting'.

Gently water in and then place the pots in a propagator or seal them inside a plastic bag at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. Germination usually only takes 7-10 days at which point the pots can be removed from their bag or propagator.

Move them to a warm, bright windowsill, but keep out of direct sunlight as cucumber seedlings are easily scorched. Grow them on until they are large enough to be transplanted. Try to maintain a minimum temperature of 15 degrees Celsius and keep the compost moist but not waterlogged as this will damage the juvenile roots system. Once the young cucumber plants are have put on some decent growth they will be ready for transplanting. Just make sure that you disturb the roots as little as possible.

Greenhouse varieties will need to be kept at a temperature of at least 15 degrees Celsius and can be planted either directly into the soil 18 inches apart, or at a spacing of 2 plants per growbag.

Outdoor varieties will need to be hardened off over a period of 7-10 days before being subjected to the harsher, garden conditions. When ready, plant them into warm, well drained, humus rich soil. They will do best planted in a sunny, sheltered position protected from strong winds. Plant outdoor cucumbers in single rows at a distance 36 inches apart.



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